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Letter X: Domestic Life • Letter XIII

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  26 May 2022

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Summary

Peaceful Monotony—A Japanese School—A Dismal Ditty—Punishment—A Children's Part)'·—A Juvenile Belle—Female Names—A Juvenile Drama- Needlework—Caligraphy—Arranging Flowers—Kanaya—Daily Routine —An Evening's Entertainment— Planning Routes—The God-shelf.

IRMGHI, NIKKO, June 23.

MY peacefully monotonous life here is nearly at. an end. The people are so quiet and kindly, though almost too still, and I have learned to know something of the externals of village life, and have become quite fond of the place.

The village of Irimichi, which epitomises for me at present the village life of Japan, consists of about three hundred houses built along three roads, across which steps in fours and threes are placed at intervals. Down the middle of each a rapid stream runs in a stone channel, and this gives endless amusement to the children, specially to the boys, who devise many ingenious models and mechanical toys, which are put in motion by water-wheels. But at 7 A.M. a drum beats to summon the children to a school whose buildings would not discredit any school-board at home. Too much Europeanised I thought it, and the children looked very uncomfortable sitting on high benches in front of desks, instead of squatting, native fashion. The school apparatus is very good, and there are fine maps on the walls. The teacher, a man about twenty-five, made very free use of the black-board, and questioned his pupils with much rapidity. The best answer moved its giver to the head of the class, as with us. Obedience is the foundation of the Japanese social order, and with children accustomed to unquestioning obedience at home the teacher has no trouble in securing quietness, attention, and docility. There was almost a painful earnestness in the old-fashioned faces which pored over the school-books; even such a rare event as the entrance of a foreigner failed to distract these childish students. The younger pupils were taught chiefly by object lessons, and the older were exercised in reading geographical and historical books aloud, a very high key being adopted, and a most disagreeable tone, both with the Chinese and Japanese pronunciation.

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Unbeaten Tracks in Japan
Revisiting Isabella Bird
, pp. 66 - 72
Publisher: Amsterdam University Press
Print publication year: 2018

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