This study proceeds from the general to the specific. Part I (Chapters 1 to 3) offers broad analyses of types of garments and the general composition of wardrobes as found in the Accounts. Each type of garment is treated separately, and they are generally considered in the order in which they tend to appear in inventories and even in the lists in the Accounts, with main outer garments listed first, then inner layers, then undergarments and accessories. Portraits and references to extant garments are included where possible to give a more concrete idea of how these types of clothing looked. The discussion focuses on the commonalities to be found across many recipients and notes the most popular colors and types of fabrics for each garment as well as notions and decoration. Information about the construction of garments is included where available. Consideration is given to garments that tended to be worn together as well as those that might be ordered as matching sets. These chapters also examine how clothing interacted with the social structure of Scotland at this time. This lateral analysis provides context within which the clothing of individual recipients can be placed.

Chapter 1 focuses on men's garments and Chapter 2 on women's garments. Chapter 3 explores specialty garments, such as liveries and clothing for military use, weddings, and funerals. It also covers the storage, care, and carriage of garments.

Part II (Chapters 4 to 8) contain “wardrobe biographies,” in which all of the entries from the Accounts concerning garments given to a particular recipient are gathered together in chronological order. For each person, biographical information is included if it is known in order to give a frame of reference for the items received. A few people received truly large amounts of clothing, and for those, two summarized lists of their wardrobe as shown in the Accounts follow the transcriptions of their entries. The chronological summary shows the development of the wardrobe over time and gives a sense of what garments would have been worn together. The summary by category (such as gown, kirtle, etc.) shows the totality of the wardrobe as it accumulated over the years represented in the regency Accounts.