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1 - Introduction

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  25 October 2011

Alexander Babanin
Affiliation:
Swinburne University of Technology, Victoria
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Summary

Wind-generated waves are the most prominent feature of the ocean surface. As much as the oceans cover a major part of our planet, the waves cover all of the oceans. If there is any object in oceanography that does not need too much of a general introduction, it is the surface waves generated by the wind.

Being such a conspicuous entity, these waves, however, represent one of the most complex physical phenomena of nature. Three major processes are responsible for wave evolution in general, with many more whose significance varies depending on conditions (such as wave-bottom interaction which is only noticeable in shallow areas). The first process is energy and momentum input from the wind. The waves are generated by turbulent wind, and the turbulence is most important both for their initial creation and for subsequent growth (e.g. Miles', 1957; Miles, 1959, 1960; Phillips', 1957; Janssen, 1994, 2004; Belcher & Hunt, 1993; Belcher & Hunt, 1998; Kudryavtsev et al., 2001, among many others). There is, however, no fixed theory of turbulence to begin with. Experimentalists have to deal with tiny turbulent fluctuations of air which are of the order of 10-5-10-6 of the mean atmospheric pressure and which must be measured very close to the water surface, typically below the wave crests (e.g. Donelan et al., 2005).

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Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Print publication year: 2011

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  • Introduction
  • Alexander Babanin, Swinburne University of Technology, Victoria
  • Book: Breaking and Dissipation of Ocean Surface Waves
  • Online publication: 25 October 2011
  • Chapter DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511736162.002
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  • Introduction
  • Alexander Babanin, Swinburne University of Technology, Victoria
  • Book: Breaking and Dissipation of Ocean Surface Waves
  • Online publication: 25 October 2011
  • Chapter DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511736162.002
Available formats
×

Save book to Google Drive

To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Google Drive.

  • Introduction
  • Alexander Babanin, Swinburne University of Technology, Victoria
  • Book: Breaking and Dissipation of Ocean Surface Waves
  • Online publication: 25 October 2011
  • Chapter DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511736162.002
Available formats
×