Skip to main content Accessibility help
×
Hostname: page-component-5c6d5d7d68-sv6ng Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-08-16T06:29:05.292Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

2 - Some classical problems in water-wave theory

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  04 May 2010

R. S. Johnson
Affiliation:
University of Newcastle upon Tyne
Get access

Summary

Yet let us hence, and find or feel a way

Thro' this blind haze

The Passing of Arthur

The study of problems in water-wave theory, particularly under the umbrella of the linear approximation, goes back over 150 years. In the intervening time, many different problems – and extensions of standard problems – have been discussed by many authors. In a text such as ours, it is necessary to make a selection from this body of classical work; we cannot hope to describe all the various problems, nor all the subtle variants of standard problems. Our intention is, of course, to include the simplest and most fundamental results (such as, for example, the speed of waves over constant depth and the description of particle paths), but otherwise we choose those topics which contain some interesting and relevant mathematics. However, since we shall not present all that some readers might, perhaps, expect or prefer, we endeavour to remedy this by introducing additional examples through the exercises. The sufficiently dedicated reader is therefore directed to the exercises, particularly if a broader spectrum of water-wave theory is desired.

The material here is presented under two separate headings. The first is linear problems, where, apart from the elementary aspects mentioned above, we single out those topics that are attractive and which will prove relevant to some of our later discussions. Thus we describe waves on sloping beaches, as well as the phenomenon of edge waves.

Type
Chapter
Information
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Print publication year: 1997

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

Save book to Kindle

To save this book to your Kindle, first ensure coreplatform@cambridge.org is added to your Approved Personal Document E-mail List under your Personal Document Settings on the Manage Your Content and Devices page of your Amazon account. Then enter the ‘name’ part of your Kindle email address below. Find out more about saving to your Kindle.

Note you can select to save to either the @free.kindle.com or @kindle.com variations. ‘@free.kindle.com’ emails are free but can only be saved to your device when it is connected to wi-fi. ‘@kindle.com’ emails can be delivered even when you are not connected to wi-fi, but note that service fees apply.

Find out more about the Kindle Personal Document Service.

Available formats
×

Save book to Dropbox

To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Dropbox.

Available formats
×

Save book to Google Drive

To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Google Drive.

Available formats
×