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3 - Dressing the Bride: Weddings and Fashion Practices at German Princely Courts in the Fifteenth and Sixteenth Centuries

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  21 November 2020

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Summary

Abstract

Marriages between the aristocratic elite played an important role in the exchange of fashion at early modern European courts. Because bridal couples usually came from different regions or countries, different styles of clothing came into contact at the wedding celebration as well as afterwards, when the bride started living at her husband’s court. Focussing on princely German courts in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, this paper shows how noble women took their natal dress with them to their marital court and how the court reacted to their foreign style. By analysing the dress practices of noble women, this essay looks into the political potentials of dress and the shaping of identities of the female elite at German courts.

Key words: German courts; dowry; trousseau; dress practices; foreign style; wedding

In the late Middle Ages, kinship ties within the European aristocracy were of major importance for cultural exchange processes at princely courts. A relatively dense network of marriage relationships formed the basis for a wide range of different contacts; and the increasing mobility towards the end of the Middle Ages intensified this even further. These relationships also favoured the exchange and communication of princely fashions between different regions and countries. During the subsequent transition from the Middle Ages to the early modern period by the end of the fifteenth and the beginning of the sixteenth century, princely dress practices were not just determined socially but also and above all culturally. Anchored in specific life worlds, they maintained not only social position, lineage, and/or family status, but also specific, although not clearly circumscribed, geographical spaces. Contemporaries already registered differences between domestic and foreign princely dress very precisely and assumed that there were several simultaneously coexisting, spatially linked fashions. Envoys and emissaries who helped communicate news and cultivate social contacts reported on dress customs at other courts, and they frequently took robes or fabrics home as presents. Aristocrats receiving their training at several different courts also spread knowledge about foreign dress styles. However, what were likely even more significant for the exchange of fashions were the personal meetings between the aristocrats themselves that occurred – frequently on the basis of existing familial ties – within, for example, the framework of court feasts, longer stays for educational and training purposes, and political negotiations or visits.

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Sartorial Politics in Early Modern Europe
Fashioning Women
, pp. 75 - 92
Publisher: Amsterdam University Press
Print publication year: 2019

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