Chinese perfumery arts have a history of two or three thousand years. The art however, was never specifically separated from medicine, personal grooming or food culture; many aromatic materials were used for all of these purposes. In comparison to western traditions it is notable that Chinese perfumery was local in character. The aromatic raw materials employed were often native to Chinese lands, or imported from nearby. Moreover, Chinese perfumery differs from the western tradition in regard to the way in which a few outstanding aromatics have been employed.

Textiles, grain, coins; people living in the Silk Road oasis of Turfan, 160 km south-east of Urumqi in today's Xinjiang, used all three items as money between 273 and 769. The city of Gaochang (some 40 km east of today's Turfan) was one of the most important cities on the northern route around the Taklamakan Desert, and many of its inhabitants were buried in the adjacent Astana and Karakhoja graveyards. The region's dry climate has preserved an extensive group of paper documents dating to before, and after, the Tang conquest of the city in 640. The residents of Turfan buried their dead with shoes, belts, hats and clothing made from recycled paper with writing on it. These records offer an unparalleled glimpse of how people living along the Silk Road used textiles as currency.

The kingdom of Khotan lay 2,628 kilometres to the north-west of the Tang capital at Chang'an. Strategically located in the south-west of the Taklamakan Desert, Khotan was a meeting point of different ethnic groups, languages, cultures and traditions, and was renowned as a centre of Buddhism. With its unique combination of influences, Khotanese society was quite different from that of Turfan to the north of the Taklamakan. In addition to the indigenous practices and traditions that developed in Khotan, this kingdom was always under the influence of major external political powers: Khotan was a vassal kingdom of the Hephtalites or Turkic peoples during the sixth century, came under increasing Chinese influence in the seventh and eighth centuries, was under Tibetan occupation from the 790s to 840s, and thereafter under the Chinese again. The secular documentary evidence from Khotan, written in Khotanese and Chinese, from the seventh and eighth centuries reflects everyday life there, and reveals the impact of Chinese administrative changes on traditional practices.

The extensive documentary evidence collected and analysed in the previous studies in this issue suggest a preliminary conclusion that can be summarised as follows: from the collapse of the Han dynasty to the glorious days of the Tang dynasty, the peoples living in the Western Regions along the Silk Road used multiple co-existing forms of money – grain, cloth and coins – with one of these three items becoming predominant according to changes in political and/or economic circumstances. However, this multicurrency system did not outlive the political, economic and fiscal upheavals that shook the Tang empire from the mid-eighth century onwards. As far as the materials from Turfan and Dunhuang are concerned, the latest evidence for this monetary system is provided by a manuscript found at Dunhuang (P 3348 V°), already quoted in Arakawa Masaharu's article, which permits us to see how such a complex monetary system worked in real life once the silk shipped by the Tang government arrived in the Western Regions. In particular, a subsidiary account (P 3348 V°2 B) inscribed in this accounting report reveals how a local official called Li Jingyu 李景玉, who was vice-commissioner in the army stationed in that region, received his salary for the first semester of the year 745 ce.

This glossary presents 80 items of textile terminology that are found in the Chinese documents from Dunhuang and Turfan, or in historical texts. Some of these terms can be identified with actual textiles found at sites in north-western China. Readers should be aware that there are variations in textile terminology in this international field of research: for example, we have used “plain weave” where other textile specialists might prefer “tabby”; and “damask” where others might prefer “twill”.