Hostname: page-component-76fb5796d-22dnz Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-04-28T07:24:14.225Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

The Cotton Industry of Northern Italy in the Late Middle Ages: 1150–1450

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  11 May 2010

Maureen Fennell Mazzaoui
Affiliation:
Indiana University

Extract

In studies of the late medieval economy, the dominant position of the textile industry has long been recognized. Since the opening decades of this century however, scholarly attention has been directed almost exclusively toward the luxury industries of silk and fine woolens, which involved a complex financial and commercial structure geared to the satisfaction of the needs and desires of a wealthy and select clientele. Relatively neglected is that branch of the textile industry devoted to the production of low-priced cotton cloth for popular consumption. This neglect is all the more surprising in view of a rich if somewhat dispersed documentation attesting to the importance of this industry in numerous towns of Northern Italy. The large-scale production of cotton cloth posed problems of financing and organization not unlike those of silk and wool and gave rise to similar entrepreneurial forms. At the same time a study of the organization of cotton manufacture provides a number of unique insights into aspects of economic organization in Northern Italy. In the period covered by this paper, the cotton manufacturing centers of this area formed a single production zone characterized by a high degree of economic interdependence and a marked tendency toward the standardization of products.

Type
Papers Presented at the Thirty-first Annual Meeting of the Economic History Association
Copyright
Copyright © The Economic History Association 1972

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

1 There is at present no monograph on this subject. For a general treatment see Borlandi, Franco “Futainiers et Futaines dan L'Italie du Moyen Age,” Hommage a Lucien Fèebvre (Paris, 1953), vol. II, pp. 133140Google Scholar and Wescher, H.Cotton and Cotton Trade in the Middle Ages,” Ciba Review, VI (19471949), 23212360.Google Scholar For Milan see Cantùu, CesareScorsa di un Lombardo negli Archivi di Venezia (Milan, Venice 1856), pp.149151Google Scholar; Motta, EmilioPer la Storia dell'Arte dei Fustagni nel secolo XV,” Archivio Storico Lombardo, series II, vol. VII, anno XVII (1890), 140– 45Google Scholar; Barelli, G.Documenti Inediti sull'Arte dei Fustagneri a Milano,” Archivio Storico Lombardo, series III, vol. XVII, anno XXIX (1902), 221–23Google Scholar; Barbieri, GiboOrigini del Capitalismo Lombardo (Milan: Giuffre, 1961), pp. 47107.Google Scholar For Cremona see Miglioli, GuidoLe Corporazioni Cremonesi d'Arte e Mestiere nella Legislazione Statutaria del Medio Evo (Verona, Padova: Drucker, 1904).Google Scholar The statutes of the cotton guild of Bologna have been published by Gaudenzi, Augusto, Statuti delle Società del Popolo di Bologna in Fonti per la Storia d'Italia (Rome, 18891896), vol. II, pp. 397Google Scholar ff. The guild in Padua has been studied by Cessi, RobertoLe Corporazioni dei Mercanti di Panni e della Lana in Padova fino a tutto il secolo XIV in Memorie del R. Istituto Veneto di Scienze Lettere ed Arti, vol. XXVIII, n.2 (1908), pp. 15Google Scholar, 32–33, 397 ff. For Venice see Montocolo, GiovanniI Capitolari delle Arti Veneziane in Fonti per la Storia d'Italia, (Rome, 1905), vol. II, pt. II, pp. 535581Google Scholar and vol. III, pp. 271–289, 325–367. For cotton manufacture in Verona see Simeoni, LuigiGli Antichi Statuti delle Arti Veronesi in Monumenti della R. Deputazione Veneta di Storia Patria (Venice, 1914), pp. 120169Google Scholar, and more recently Maureen Fennell Mazzaoui, L'Organizzazione delle Industrie Tessili nei Secoli XIII e XIV: I Cotonieri Veronesi,” Studi Storici Veronesi Luigi Simeoni vol. XVIII-XIX, (19681969), pp. 97151.Google Scholar

2 For the linen and hemp industry in Germany see Schulte, AloysGeschichte des Mittelalterlichen Handels und Verkehrs zwischen Westdeutschland und Itallen mit Ausschluss von Venedig (Berlin: Duncker and Humblot, 1966), Vol. I, pp. 112117.Google Scholar For hemp workers in the thirteenth century see Monticolo, I Capitolari …, I, pp. 95–113.

3 The Paduan Da Nono lamented the preference of the upper classes for fine linens over the more common cotton cloth or pignolato in the thirteenth century. Cessi, La Corporazione …, pp. 25–26.

4 Grothe, HermannGeschichte der Baumwolle und Baumwollmanufaktur,” Deutsche Vierteljahrs-Schrift, II, pt. 1 (1864), pp. 77121Google Scholar; Heyd, WilhelmGeschichte des Levantehandels im Mittelalter (Stuttgart, 1879), vol. II, pp. 572–75Google Scholar; Wescher, “Cotton and Cotton Trade …,” pp. 2322–2327.

5 Schaube, AdolfHandelsgeschichte der Romanischen Völker des Mittelmeergebiets bis zum Ende der Kreuzzüge (Munich and Berlin; Oldenbourg, 1906), p. 469Google Scholar note 6 and index s.v. “barchent, barracani, bucherani.” Heyd, Geschichte …, pp. 692–93. Although Heyd lists the boccasino as a linen cloth, Italian sources denote it as a mixed cloth with a cotton weft; Mazzaoui, “Cotonieri Veronesi,” p. 137, note 76. Cf: also Schulte, AloysGeschichte der Grossen Ravensburger Handelsgesellschaft 1380–1530 (Wiesbaden: Franz Steiner, 1964) vol. II, p. 98.Google Scholar

6 On the various qualities of cotton see Pegolotti, Francesco BalducciLa Pratica della Mercatura, ed. Evans, Allen (Cambridge, Mass.: The Mediaeval Academy of America, 1936), pp. 293Google Scholar, 366–67. For the cotton of Romania see Thiriet, FreddyLa Romanie Vénitienne au Moyen Age (Paris: Boccard, 1959), pp. 321Google Scholar–22, 333, 338, 417, 436. For the cotton of Barberia see the “Statuta Universitatis et Paratici Artis Pignolatorum, Bambacis et Panni Lini” of 1388 of Cremona, mss. in the Biblioteca Governativa di Cremona, Aa 3–67, f. 8 r, where the inferior short fibre cotton of North Africa, Turkey, and Apulia was prohibited in the manufacture of cotton cloth in that city.

7 Simeoni, Statuti, pp. 132, 142, 146; Monticolo, I Capitolari …, II, pt. 2, p. 563.

8 Schaube, Handelsgeschichte …, pp. 161, 164, 284, 469, 513, 523, 637, 643, 743.

9 Schaube, Handelsgeschichte …, pp. 197, 213–14, .494 note 2, 701, 749–50. For Venetian trade with Armenia in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries see the discussion and documents in L'Armeno-Veneto, Compendio Storico e Documenti delle Relazioni degli Armeni coi Veneziani (Venice, 1893).Google Scholar

10 Monticolo, I Capitolari …, III, p. 276.

11 Schaube, Handelsgeschichte …, pp. 207, 214, 313, 384, 523, 614.

12 Bourquelot, FelixEtudes sur les foires de Champagne (Paris, 1865), vol. V, pt. I, pp. 207, 243–44Google Scholar; Endrei, WalterL'Evolution des Techniques du Filage et du Tissage (Paris: Mounton, 1968), pp. 5355Google Scholar; Wescher, ”Cotton and Cotton Trade …,“pp. 2328–2332.

13 Robert Davidsohn, Geschichte von Florenz, vol. IV, pt. 2, p. 77; Borlandi, ”Futainiers …,“p. 134; Wescher, ”Cotton and Cotton Trade …,“p. 2329.

14 In addition to the sources cited in fn. 1, see Borlandi, “Futainiers …,” pp. 135–136; Schulte, Mittelalt. Handels, p. 140; Wescher, “Cotton and Cotton Trade …,” pp. 2329–2331.

15 Schaube, Handelsgeschichte …, pp. 159–60, 204, 207, 246, 271, 292, 312–13, 371, 384–5, 387, 415, 442, 466–7, 500, 502, 522–3, 546, 576, 582, 588, 592, 603, 638, 761; Bourquelot, Etudes …, p. 256.

16 On the terminology, see Mazzaoui,“Contonieri Veronesi,” pp. 136–37 and Cange, Charles Du Fresne DuGlossarium Mediae et Infimae Latinitatis (Paris, 1840)Google Scholar s.v. pignolatum. On garments see Cecchetti, B.La Vita Dei Veneziani nel 1300: Le Vesti (Venice, 1886), p. 7.Google Scholar

17 Du Cange, s.v. “gipo,” “gambiso.” On the popularity of the doublet in England, see Wadsworth, Alfred P. and Mann, Julia De LacyThe Cotton Trade and Industrial Lancashire 1600–1780 (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1931), p. 18.Google Scholar

18 Simeoni, Gli Antichi Statuti …, p. 297; Monticolo, I Capitolari …, I, pp. 23–54.

19 Hourani, George F.Arab Seafaring in the Indian Ocean in Ancient and Early Medieval Times (Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1951), p. 100.Google Scholar

20 Monticolo, I Capitolari …, II, pt. 2, p. 549, note 2; Heers, JacquesGênes au XVe Siecle (Paris: S.E.V.P.E.N., 1961), p. 229.Google Scholar

21 Simeoni, Gli Antichi Statuti, pp. 170–92; Monticolo, I Capitolari …, I, pp. 157–58.

22 Schaube, Handelsgeschichte …, p. 549, note 6. Cf. Wescher, “Cotton and Cotton Trade …,” pp. 2358–9.

23 The document has been published by Simeoni, Luigi in Studi su Verona nel Medio Evo (Verona: Istituto di Studi Storici Veronesi, 1967), I, pp. 67Google Scholar–8; 83–4. Although Simeoni maintains that the guild represents a primitive association of the woolen industry, it is clear from the products mentioned and the structure of the corporation that the guild is one of cotton producers. For a detailed analysis of the document see Mazzaoui, “Cotonieri Veronesi” pp. 124–125.

24 Affo, IreneoStoria della Città di Parma (Parma, 1793), pp. 325–26, 329.Google Scholar

25 Maureen Fennell Mazzaoui, “The Emigration of Veronese Textile Artisans to Bologna in the Thirteenth Century,” Atti e Memorie della Academia di Agricoltura, Scienze e Lettere di Verona, series VI, vol. XIX, pp. 275–321 and especially p. 279, note 10. See also Gaudenzi, Statuti …, II, pp. 395–407.

26 Cessi, La Corporazione …, pp. 15, 32–33.

27 Mazzaoui, “Emigration,” pp. 280–282; Mazzaoui, “Cotonieri Veronesi,” pp. 138, 151.

28 These measurements concerned primarily the so called panno stricto. See Mazzaoui, “Cotonieri Veronesi,” pp. 146–47.

29 Pegolotti, La Practica …, p. 180.

30 Mazzaoui, “Cotonieri Veronesi,” p. 142. Cf. also Simeoni, Statuti, pp. 130, 131, 170–83; Pancotti, VincenzoI Paratici Vicentini e I Loro Statuti (Piacenza: Biblioteca Storica Piacentina. 19251930), pp. 323–26Google Scholar; Monticolo, I Capitolari …, II, pt. 2, pp. 548–51, 557, 568; Gaudenzi, Statuti …, II, p. 405.

31 On the standardization of loom reeds, linear measurements and warp threads for woolen cloth, see Mazzaoui, “Emigration,” p. 283. On the bows, see Simeoni, Gli Antichi Statuti …, p. 134 and Monticolo, I Capitolari …, II, pt. 2, p. 678 and III, pp. 3–4. It should be pointed out that in England, beginning in the fifteenth century, cotton cloths retained a unit of measurement peculiar to themselves, the goad of 1½ yards. Wadsworth and Mann, The Cotton Trade …, p. 16, note 4; Cf. p. 111 on the use of cotton warps.

32 Gualazzini, UgoAspetti Giuridici della Signoria di Uberto Pelavicino su Cremona,” Archivio Storico Lombardo, LXXXIII (1957), 26.Google Scholar

33 Endrei, pp. 23–38.

34 Ibid., pp. 59–61; In the light of the Italian documentation it is difficult to accept Endrei's affirmation (p. 109) that the bow was only rarely used for beating cotton in the middle ages.

35 Endrei, L'Evolution … pp. 20–23, 45–46, 53–56, 85–90.

36 On the labor of religious houses see Cessi, La Corporazione … p. 15.

37 Monticolo, I Capitolari … III, p. 355 ff.

38 Simeoni, Gli Antichi Statuti …, pp. 120–169; Monticolo, I Capitolari … II, pt. 2, pp. 535–81; III, pp. 3–4, 271–289, 325–367; Motta, “Per La Storia …,” p. 142; Barelli, Origini del Capitalismo …, pp. 221–23; Cessi, La Corporazione … pp. 175–79. For Cremona see the “Statuta vetera consulum artis pignolatorum et panni lini Cremonae,” mss. della Biblioteca Governativa di Cremona, Aa 3–67, f. 15 r. At Cremona in the fourteenth century the beaters of cotton were organized in a separate guild, Miglioli, pp. 85–88.

39 For a discussion of these institutions see Gualazzini, Ugo, “Rapporti fra Capitale e Lavoro nelle Industrie Tessili Lombarde del Medio Evo,” Memorie dell' Instituto Giuridico della R. Università di Torino, series II, XX (1932), pp. 34 ff, 70 ff.Google Scholar On the Casa dei Mercanti in Verona, see Mazzaoui, “Cotonieri Veronesi,” pp. 103 ff.

40 Among others see Lopez, R. S. and Miskimin, H. A., “The Economic Depression of the Renaissance,” The Economic History Review, series II, XIV (1962), pp. 408CrossRefGoogle Scholar–27; Pitz, E.Die Wirtschaftskrise des Spaätmittelalters,” Vierteliahrschrift für Sozialund Wirtschaftsgeschichte, LII (1965), pp. 347Google Scholar–67; Mollat, M.Johansen, P.Postan, M.Sapori, A.Verlinden, C.L'Economie Europeenne aux demiers siecles du Moyen Age,” Relazioni del X Congresso Internazionale di Scienze Storiche, VI (1955).Google Scholar

41 Herlihy, DavidMedieval and Renaissance Pistoia (New Haven: Yale University Press, 1967), p. 115.Google Scholar

42 Dowd, Douglas F.The Economic Expansion of Lombardy, 1300–1500: A Study in Political Stimuli to Economic Change,” The Journal of Economic History, XXI (1961), 149, 155.Google Scholar

43 Rossini, Egidio and Mazzaoui, Maureen FennellSocieta e Tecnica nel Medioevo: La Produzione dei Panni di Lana a Verona nei Secoli XIII, XIV, XV,” Atti e Memorie della Academia di Agricoltura Scienze e Lettere di Verona, Series VI, XXI (19691970), 571624. Cf. Dowd, pp.. 155–158.Google Scholar

44 Heers, JacquesIl Comercio nel Mediterraneo alla Fine del Secolo XIV e nei Primi Anni del XV,” Archivio Storico Italiano (1955), pp. 202–09.Google Scholar

45 Lane, Frederic ChapinVenentian Ships and Shipbuilders of the Renaissance (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins Press, 1934), pp. 4546.Google Scholar

46 Heers, “Commercio,” pp. 165–176, 202 ff; Heers, Gênes, pp. 392–393.

47 Mallett, Michael E.The Florentine Galleys in the Fifteenth Century (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1967), ch. 5.Google Scholar

48 Luzzatto, GinoStoria Economica di Venezia dall' XI al XIV Secolo, (Venice: Centro Internazionale delle Arti e del Costume, 1961), p. 167.Google Scholar

49 The Genoese were also active in this trade. Heers, “Commercio,” pp. 176–179.

50 Gaddi, LuigiPer la Storia della Legislazione e delle Istituzioni Mercantili Lombarde,” Archivio Storico Lombardo, series II, X (1893), p. 312Google Scholar; Schulte, Mittelalt. Handels, I, 105 ff, 139–141, II, p. 108; Schulte, Ravensburger Handelsg., I, pp. 249–251, 495–498; II, p. 97ff. For the cotton industry of Ulm see Nübling, EugenUlms Baumwollweberei im Mittelalter (Leipzig, 1890).Google Scholar For Strassburg see Schmoller, GustavDie Strassburger Tucher-und Weberzunft (Strassburg, 1879).Google Scholar Also Westermann, AscanZur Geschichte der Memminger Weberzunft und ihrer Erzeugnisse” Vierteljahrschrift für Sozial-und Wirtschaftsgeschichte, XII (1914), pp. 385403, 567–592.Google Scholar

51 Barbieri, pp. 47–107; Cantù, pp. 149–151; Gaddi, p. 310–311.

52 Schulte, Mittelalt. Handels, I, 646–647; Schulte, Ravensburger Handelsg., I, pp. 249–250, pp. 97–105; Wescher, pp. 2341–2344.

53 A.S.V. Casa dei Mercanti II, f. 145 v–152 r.

54 Pancotti, III, p. 325; Gaddi, p. 619.

55 Gaddi, p. 947; Schulte, Mittelalt. Handels, I, p. 569; Kretschmayr, HeinrichGeschichte von Venedig (Stuttgart: Scientia Aalen, 1964) II, pp. 617618; Cf. Luzzatto, pp. 165–167 who considers Mocenigo's figures exaggerated.Google Scholar

56 Heers, Gênes, p. 229.