Japan was in Miss Bird's mind all winter, and by February, 1878, she was preparing for her voyage and exploration. From the first she planned to make a tour in the interior rather than to prolong her residence in the capital and other cities. She wished to come in contact with as much of ancient Japan as possible. The old order was changing, the Shogunate had disappeared, the very name of the capital—Yedo—was altered to Tokio, although the old customs died hard, and there was still an old-world, in spite of its continuous transformation under the breath of the Western spirit. It was indeed the very hour of its transition, and Miss Bird was to witness the process of a metamorphosis unequalled in thoroughness since Roman days and swifter far than any national change chronicled by historians.

Lady Middleton, who secured for Miss Bird a valuable introduction to Sir Harry and Lady Parkes from the Duke of Argyll, had asked her to choose and purchase curios, embroideries and bronzes. She was equipped altogether with forty letters to influential residents. The parting with her sister was unspeakably sad. Henrietta was not well, and Dr. Bishop was again in attendance.