Introduction

Appey owns a tented shop at Bachu, a wide, open grassland at roughly 4,100 metres below the Ngula Dachen Pass (5,090m), which leads into China, connecting rural inhabitants of northern Nepal's Tsum Valley with cities and market towns in the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR). Situated more than half a day's walk beyond Tsum's last village, Appey's shop is the final serviced stopover before the steep approach to the pass – somewhere people can pause for a meal along the way or stay for the night.

The place is simple. Appey has pitched two large communal tents next to one another. He has then tied plastic tarps on poles to the main tent to create a kitchen, where he prepares food on an open fire. Sacks of rice, lentils, and flour, along with canned pork, instant noodles, tea, and whisky, are stacked high on metal shelves further inside. The seating area, an arrangement of handwoven rugs, blankets, and insulated mats, is usually occupied by groups of men from the lower hill regions. They pass the time playing dice, listening to pop music from a massive loudspeaker. In the neighbouring tent is a pool table, and several mattresses that can be rolled out to sleep on. Without electricity or transmission lines at this altitude, the equipment is powered by two large solar panels and batteries.