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² Another version of the mole legend—with a picaresque rather than divine view of the national identity—attributed the mixture to a certain Fray Pascual, who accidentally spilled the spice tray into the dinner pot. For a summary of mole legends, see Valle, Rafael Heliodoro, “Anales del mole de guajolote,” in Valle, Irene Vazquez, ed. La cultura popular vista por las élites (Antología de artículos publicados entre 1920 y 1952) (Mexico City: Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México, 1989), pp. 421–33;Google Scholar Peredo, Miguel Guzmán, Crónicas gastronómicas (Mexico City: Fontmara, 1991), pp. 27–29.Google Scholar

³ Brading, D.A., The Origins of Mexican Nationalism (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1985);Google Scholar idem., The First America: The Spanish Monarchy, Creole Patriots, and the Liberal State, 1492–1867 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1991).

⁴ Sierra, Justo, The Political Evolution of the Mexican People, Ramsdell, Charles, trans. (Austin: University of Texas Press, 1969)Google Scholar. Positivist intellectuals are often portrayed in racist, Social Darwinist terms, but most saw the Indian as redeemable through the adoption of western lifestyles. See Raat, Dirk, El Positivismo durante el Porfiriato (Mexico City: Secretaría de Educación Pública, 1975);Google Scholar Navarro, Moïsés González, “Las ideas raciales de los científicos, 1890–1910,” Historia Mexicana 37:4 (1988), 565–83;Google Scholar Hale, Charles A., The Transformation of Mexican Liberalism in Late Nineteenth-Century Mexico (Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1989);Google Scholar Quiñones, Juan Gómez, Mexican National Formation: Political Discourse, Policy and Dissidence (Encino, CA: Floricanto Press, 1992).Google Scholar

⁵ Enríquez, Andrés Molina, Los grandes problemas nacionales (Mexico City: Editora Era, 1978);Google Scholar Gamio, Manuel, Forjando patria (Mexico City: Editorial Porrúa, 1960);Google Scholar Vasconcelos, José, La raza cósmica, misión de la raza iberoamericana (Mexico City: Espasa-Calpe, 1966).Google Scholar The classic study attributing Mexican nationalism to the revolution is Turner, Frederick C., The Dynamic of Mexican Nationalism (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1968).Google Scholar For the mestizo and nationalist ideology, see Knight, Alan, “Racism, Revolution, and Indigenismo: Mexico, 1910–1940,” in Graham, Richard, ed., The Idea of Race and in Latin America, 1870–1940 (Austin: University of Texas Press, 1990), pp. 71–114;Google Scholar Benítez, Agustín F. Basave, México mestizo: Análisis del nacionalismo mexicano en torno a la mestizofilia de Andrés Molina Enriquez (Mexico City: Fondo de Cultura Económica, 1992).Google Scholar

⁶ Ramos, Samuel, Profile of Man and Culture in Mexico, Earle, Peter G., trans. (Austin: University of Texas Press, 1962), pp. 54–72;Google Scholar Paz, Octavio, The Labyrinth of Solitude, Kemp, Lysander, trans. (New York: Grove Press, 1961), pp. 86–88.Google Scholar For an analysis of their work, see Schmidt, Henry C., The Roots of Lo Mexicano: Self and Society in Mexican Thought, 1900–1934 (College Station: Texas A&M University Press, 1978).Google Scholar A trenchant critique is given by Bartra, Roger, The Cage of Melancholy : Identity and Metamorphosis in the Mexican Culture, Hall, Christopher J., trans. (New Brunswick, NJ: Rutgers University Press, 1992).Google Scholar

⁷ Anderson, Benedict, Imagined Communities: Reflections on the Origin and Spread of Nationalism, rev. ed. (London: Verso, 1991), p. 143.Google Scholar See also Hunt, Lynn, The Family Romance of the French Revolution (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1992), p. 196.Google Scholar

⁸ Franco, Jean, Plotting Women: Gender and Representation in Mexico (New York: Columbia University Press, 1988);Google Scholar Guy, Donna J., Sex and Danger in Buenos Aires: Prostitution, Family, and Nation in Argentina (Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press, 1991);Google Scholar Adler, Claudio Lomnitz, Exits from the Labyrinth: Culture and Ideology in the Mexican National Space (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1992);Google Scholar Buffington, Robert, “Forging the Fatherland: Criminality and Citizenship in Modern Mexico,” (Ph.D. diss., University of Arizona, 1994).Google Scholar Although less concerned with nationalism per se, see also the pioneering study by Arrom, Silvia Marina, The Women of Mexico City, 1790–1857 (Stanford: Stanford University Press, 1985).Google Scholar

⁹ Appadurai, Arjun, “How to Make a National Cuisine: Cookbooks in Contemporary India,” Comparative Studies in Society and History 30:1 (January 1988), 3–24.CrossRefGoogle Scholar

¹⁰ For a discussion of the “Porfirian Persuasion” and the imitation of foreign culture, see Beezley, William H., Judas at the Jockey Club and Other Episodes of Porfirian Mexico (Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press, 1987).Google Scholar

¹¹ Quoted in Coe, Sophie D., America’s First Cuisines (Austin: University of Texas Press, 1994), p. 93.Google Scholar

¹² Lockhart, James, ed. We People Here: Nahuatl Accounts of the Conquest of Mexico (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1993), p. 80.Google Scholar

¹³ Quoted in Corcuera, Sonia, Entre gula y templanza: Un aspecto de la historia mexicana (Mexico City: Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México, 1981), p. 69.Google Scholar

¹⁴ An enormous literature documents ethnohistorical encounters of the colonial period. On cuisine, see Crosby, Alfred W. Jr., The Columbian Exchange: Biological and Cultural Consequences of 1492 (Westport, CT: Greenwood Press, 1972);Google Scholar Super, John C., Food, Conquest, and Colonization in Sixteenth-Century Spanish America (Albuquerque: University of New Mexico Press, 1988).Google Scholar More generally, see Gibson, Charles, The Aztecs Under Spanish Rule: A History of the Indians of the Valley of Mexico, 1519–1810 (Stanford: University of Stanford Press, 1964);Google Scholar Taylor, William B., Drinking, Homicide, and Rebellion in Colonial Mexican Villages (Stanford: Stanford University Press, 1979);Google Scholar Farriss, Nancy, Maya Society Under Colonial Rule: The Collective Enterprise of Survival (Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1984);Google Scholar Lockhart, James, The Nahuas After the Conquest: A Social and Cultural History of the Indians of Central Mexico, Sixteenth Through Eighteenth Centuries (Stanford: Stanford University Press, 1992).Google Scholar

¹⁵ Cortés, Fernando, Five Letters of Cortés to the Emperor, Morris, J. Bayard, trans. (New York: W. W. Norton, 1991), p. 97;Google Scholar del Castillo, Bernal Díaz, The Discovery and Conquest of Mexico, 1517–1521, Maudslay, A. P., trans. (London: George Routledge, 1928), pp. 290–91.Google Scholar The best survey of Precolum bian cuisine is Coe, America’s First Cuisines.

¹⁶ Vegetarian diets such as that of Mesoamerica provided sufficient protein because of the complementarity of amino acids. Beans provide the lysine missing from com, and corn contains the cystine and methionine lacking in beans. Hector Arraya, Marina Flores, and Guillermo Arroyave, “Nutritive Value of Basic Foods and Common Dishes of the Guatemalan Rural Populations: A Theoretical Approach,” Ecology of Food and Nutrition 11 (1981); 171–76.

¹⁷ Borah, Woodrow and Cook, Sherburne F., The Aboriginal Population of Central Mexico on the Eve of the Spanish Conquest (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1963).Google Scholar Some scholars consider this estimate to be vastly inflated. See Sánchez-Albornoz, Nicolás, The Population of Latin America: A History, Richardson, W. A. R., trans. (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1974).Google Scholar

¹⁸ Clendinnen, Inga, Aztecs: An Interpretation (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1991), p. 162.Google Scholar

¹⁹ Vives, Jaime Vicens, An Economic History of Spain, López-Morillas, Frances M., trans. (Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1969), pp. 22–24, 48–56, 63–67;CrossRefGoogle Scholar Ross, Oliver, “Wheat Growing in Northern New Spain,” North Dakota Quarterly 45:3 (Summer 1977), 61–69;Google Scholar Peterson, T. Sarah, Acquired Taste: The French Origins of Modern Cooking (Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 1994), pp. 1–14, quote from 7.Google Scholar

²⁰ Martin, Cheryl English, Rural Society in Colonial Morelos (Albuquerque: University of New Mexico Press, 1985), p. 12.Google Scholar

²¹ Crosby, The Columbian Exchange, pp. 65–74; Coe, America’s First Cuisines, p. 240; Super, Food, Conquest, and Colonization, p. 85. See also Taylor, Drinking, Homicide, and Rebellion.

²² García, Alfonso Sánchez, Toluca del chorizo (Toluca, Mexico: Serie de Arte Popular y Folklore, 1976).Google Scholar

²³ Chevalier, François, Land and Society in Colonial Mexico: The Great Hacienda, Simpson, Lesley Byrd, ed., Eustis, Alvin, trans. (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1970), p. 93;Google Scholar Gibson, Aztecs, pp. 320, 346; Farriss, Maya Society, p. 182; Lockhart, Nahuas, p. 278; Frizzi, María de los Angeles Romero, “La agricultura en la época colonial,” in Rojas, Teresa, ed. La agricultura en tierras mexicanas desde sus origines hasta nuestros días (Mexico City: Editorial Grijalba, 1991), p. 159.Google Scholar

²⁴ Toscano, Alejandra Moreno, “Tres problemas en la geografía del maíz, 1600–1624,” Historia Mexicana 14:4 (April-June 1965), 635;Google Scholar Florescano, Enrique, Precios del maíz y crisis agrícolas en México (1708–1810) (Mexico City: El Colegio de México, 1969), pp. 89–91;Google Scholar Gibson, Aztecs, pp. 224–26, 322–24; Ross, “Wheat Growing,” p. 65.

²⁵ Acosta, Virginia García, Las panaderías, sus dueños y trabajadores. Ciudad de México, siglo XVIII (Mexico City: Centro de Investigaciones y Estudios Superiores de Antropología Social, 1989), pp. 53, 73–81;Google Scholar Ayala, Sergio Rivera, “Lewd Songs and Dances from the Streets of Eighteenth-Century New Spain,” in Beezley, William H., Martin, Cheryl English, and French, William E., eds. Rituals of Rule, Rituals of Resistance: Public Celebrations and Popular Culture in Mexico (Wilmington, DE: Scholarly Resources, Inc., 1994), pp. 27–46.Google Scholar

²⁶ On the system of castes, see Mörner, Magnus, Race Mixture in the History of Latin America (Boston: Little Brown and Company, 1967), quote from p. 59;Google Scholar Chance, John K., Race and Class in Colonial Oaxaca (Stanford: Stanford University Press, 1978);Google Scholar Cope, R. Douglas, The Limits of Racial Domination: Plebeian Society in Colonial Mexico City. 1660–1720 (Madison: University of Wisconsin Press, 1994).Google Scholar

²⁷ The artists of two such series depicted tamales in scenes labelled “from lobo and Indian woman comes cambujo,” and “from Indian and barsino woman: zambaiga.” For reproductions, see Sáiz, Maria Concepción García, Las castas mexicanas: Un género pictórico americano (Milan: Olivetti. 1990), pp. 86, 98.Google Scholar For an excellent discussion of the casta paintings and the aesthetic of the “other,” see de Orellano, Margarita, “La fiebre de la imagen en la pintura de castas,” Artes de México: Nueva Epoca 8 (Summer 1990): 50–59.Google Scholar

²⁸ Quote from Cope, Limits of Racial Domination, p. 129.

²⁹ For a fuller exposition of the Creole nature of mole poblano, see Pilcher, Jeffrey M., “L’Vivan Tamales! The Creation of a Mexican National Cuisine” (Ph.D. diss., Texas Christian University, 1993), chapter 2.Google Scholar

³⁰ El cocinero mexicano o colección de las mejoras recetas para guisar al estilo americano, y de las mas selectas según el método de las cocinas española, italiano, francesa e inglesa, 3 vols. (Mexico City: Imprenta de Galván á cargo de Mariano Arevalo, 1831), preface and 1:177. Cookbooks are given with date of publication because of the frequent revisions between editions.

³¹ Nuevo cocinero mejicano en forma de diccionario (Paris and Mexico City: Librería de Rosa y Bouret, 1868), p. x.

³² Nuevo y sencillo arte, repostería y refrescos, dispuesto por una mexicana, y experimentado por personas inteligentes antes de darse a la prensa (Mexico City: Imprenta de Santiago Pérez, 1836), p. iv.

³³ La cocinera poblana y el libro de las familias. Novísimo manual práctico de cocina española, francesa, inglesa, y mexicana, 2 vols. (Puebla: Narciso Bassols, 1877), 1:3.

³⁴ de Rubio, Vicenta T., Cocina michoacana (Zamora, Michoacán: Imprenta Moderna, 1896), pp. iii–iv.Google Scholar

³⁵ Nuevo cocinero mejicano (1872), pp. 62, 158, 264; La cocinera poblana (1877), 1:37; Torres, Cocina michoacana (1896), pp. 28, 36, 224, 409. Donato Guerra, a hero of the French Intervention, may have tasted his namesake cod, but Moctezuma never ate the dessert named in his honor, which was made of candied sugar, ground almonds, and bread rolls.

³⁶ Prieto, Guillermo, Memorias de mis tiempos, 1828 á 1840 (Mexico City: Librería de la Vda. de C. Bouret, 1906), p. 287;Google Scholar Nuevo cocinero mejicano (1868), p. 940; Diario del Hogar, February 9, 1886.

³⁷ La Patria, December 2, 1898; Nuevo cocinero mejicano (1868), preface.

³⁸ For a comprehensive listing of cookbooks published in Mexico since 1821, see the appendix in Pilcher, “¡Vivan Tamales!”

³⁹ Peral, Miguel Angel, Diccionario biográfico mexicano (Mexico City: Editorial PAC, 1944), p. 292;Google Scholar Diccionario Porrúa de historia, biografía y geografía de México, 3d ed., 2 vols. (Mexico City: Editorial Porrúa, 1970), 1:833, 2:1434, 2:1593.

⁴⁰ El cocinero mejicano (1834), 1:391.

⁴¹ Hernández, Dolores Avila, “Región centro norte,” in Hernández, Dolores Avila, et al. (ed.), Atlas cultural de México: Gastronomía, (Mexico City: Grupo Editorial Planeta, 1988), pp. 67–78.Google Scholar This discussion draws on insights from Lomnitz-Adler, Exits from the Labyrinth, pp. 51–56.

⁴² Nuevo y sencillo arte (1842).

⁴³ Nuevo cocinero mejicano (1868), p. 879.

⁴⁴ El cocinero mexicano (1831), pp. 178–88.

⁴⁵ Nuevo cocinero mejicano (1868), p. 44.

⁴⁶ Rivera, Mariano Galván, Diccionario de cocina o el nuevo cocinero mexicano en forma de diccionario (Mexico City: Imprenta Ignacio Cumplido, 1845), quoted in Kennedy, Art of Mexican Cooking, p. 84.Google Scholar

⁴⁷ Peloso, Vincent C., “Succulence and Sustenance: Region, Class, and Diet in Nineteenth-Century Peru,” in Super, John C. and Wright, Thomas, eds. Food, Politics, and Society in Latin America, (Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press, 1985), pp. 46–64.Google Scholar

⁴⁸ Payno quoted in Novo, Cocina mexicana, p. 312. Clavijero, Francisco Javier, The History of Mexico (New York: Garland, 1979), pp. 431–36.Google Scholar

⁴⁹ Albán, Juan Pedro Viqueira, ¿Relajados o reprimidos? Diversiones públicas y vida social en la ciudad de México durante el Siglo de las Luces (Mexico City: Fondo de Cultura Económica, 1987), pp. 132–35.Google Scholar

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⁵¹ de la Barca, Fanny Calderón, Life in Mexico: The Letters of Fanny Calderón de la Barca, Fisher, Howard T. and Fisher, Marion Hall, eds. (Garden City, NY: Doubleday, 1966), p. 156;Google Scholar Bullock, William, Six Months Residence and Travels in Mexico (Port Washington, NY: Kennikat Press, 1971 [1824]), p. 431;Google Scholar John G. Bourke, “The Folk-Foods of the Rio Grande Valley and of Northern Mexico,” Journal of American Folk-Lore (1895): 41–71; Gooch, Fanny Chambers [Iglehart], Face to Face with the Mexicans (New York: Fords, Howard, & Hulbert, 1887), pp. 62–64.Google Scholar

⁵² Viqueira Albán, ¿Relajados o reprimidos?, pp. 160–162.

⁵³ Calderón de la Barca, Life in Mexico, pp. 541–42; Gooch, Face to Face, pp. 285, 438.

⁵⁴ de la Barca, Calderón, Life in Mexico, pp. 194–99;Google Scholar de la Vara, Martín González, La historia del helado en México (Mexico City: Maas y Asociados, 1989), p. 41.Google Scholar

⁵⁵ Anne Staples, “Orden y Buen Policia: Nineteenth-Century Efforts to Regulate Public Behavior (Tlacotlalpan, Veracruz, and Mexico City at Mid-Century),” in Rituals of Rule, pp. 115–26.

⁵⁶ Archivo Histórico de la Secretaría de Salud (hereafter AHSS), Inspección, box 1, exp. 4, proclamation dated June 19, 1854; Archivo Histórico de la Ciudad de Mexico, vol. 3668, exp. 93, Cayetano Teller to Cipriano Robert, September 13, 1870.

⁵⁷ Bulnes, Francisco, El porvenir de las naciones Hispano Americanas ante las conquistas recientes de Europa y los Estados Unidos (Mexico City: Imprenta de Mariano Nava, 1899), pp. 7, 17, 30.Google Scholar

⁵⁸ Guerrero, Julio, La génesis del crimen en México: Estudio de psiquiatría social (Mexico City: Librería de la Vda. de Ch. Bouret, 1901), p. 148.Google Scholar I thank Rob Buffington for this citation.

⁵⁹ La Mujer, April 15, 1881; El Imparcial, July 2, November 30, December 2, 1898.

⁶⁰ Anduiza, Jacinto, El libro del hogar (Pachuca, Hidalgo: Imprenta “La Europea,” 1893), p. 6.Google Scholar

⁶¹ Calderón de la Barca, Life in Mexico, pp. 55, 129, 170, 614.

⁶² Mennell, Stephen, All Manners of Food: Eating and Taste in England and France from the Middle Ages to the Present (Oxford: Basil Blackwell, 1985), pp. 134–65;Google Scholar Spang, Rebecca, “A Confusion of Appetites: The Emergence of Paris Restaurant Culture, 1740–1848” (Ph.D. diss., Cornell University, 1993), pp. 77–83;Google Scholar Camporesi, Piero, Exotic Brew: The Art of Living in the Age of Enlightenment, Woodall, Christopher, trans. (Cambridge, UK: Polity Press, 1994), pp. 27–35;Google Scholar Peterson, Acquired Taste, pp. 183–208.

⁶³ José Luis Juárez, “La lenta emergencia de la comida mexicana, ambigüedades criollas 1750–1800” (Lie. thesis, Escuela Nacional de Antropología e Historia, 1993), pp. 103–5.

⁶⁴ Beezley, William H., “The Porfirian Smart Set Anticipates Thorstein Veblen in Guadalajara” in Rituals of Rule, p. 178.Google Scholar

⁶⁵ Manual del cocinero y cocinera, tomada del periodico literario La Risa (Puebla: Imprenta de José María Macias, 1849), pp. 66–75, 307; Novísimo arte de cocina (1831), p. 30; Gutiérrez, María Antonio, El ama de casa (Mexico City: Librería de la Vda. de Ch. Bouret, 1899), pp. 352–54;Google Scholar Anduiza, El libro del hogar, p. 283; Nuevo cocinero mejicano (1868), p. 795; Torres, Cocina michoacana, pp. 45, 240, 446.

⁶⁶ See, for example, Semana de las Señoritas, 1851, 1:75; Diario del Hogar, February 5, 1882; El Correo de las Señoras, February 24, 1884; El Comercio de Morelia, October 5, 1894; La Semana en el Hogar, August 12, 1895; El Heraldo del Hogar, July 20, 1910.

⁶⁷ AHSS, Inspección, box 1, exp. 5, report of sanitary inspector Ildefonso Velasco, August 26, 1872. See also the advertisements in Mexico City newspapers, for example, Two Republics, November 28, 1868.

⁶⁸ Brillat-Savarin, Jean Anthelme, Fisiologiá del gusto, Romero, Eufemio, trans. (Mexico City: Imprenta de Juan R. Navarro, 1852);Google Scholar El libro de cocina de Jules Gouffé, antiguo jefe de cocina del Jockey Club de Paris 2 vols. (Mexico City: Ed. Rodríguez y Cía., 1893).

⁶⁹ Cubas, Antonio García, El libro de mis recuerdos (Mexico City: Secretaría de Educación Pública. 1946), pp. 50–53;Google Scholar Luis González y González, Emma Cosío Villegas, and Guadalupe Monroy, La República Restaurada: La vida social, III, Villagas, Daniel Cosió, ed. Historia moderna de México (Mexico City: Editorial Hermes, 1956), pp. 492–93.Google Scholar

⁷⁰ El Imparcial, June 3, 1898; Monterey News, September 18, 1903.

⁷¹ Novo, Cocina mexicana, pp. 125–35.

⁷² Ibid, pp. 135–37; Recuerdo gastronómico del centenario, 1810–1910 (Mexico: N.p., 1910); Beezley, “Porfirian Smart Set,” p. 180; Monterey News, September 18, 1903; Levenstein, Harvey A., Revolution at the Table: The Transformation of the American Diet (New York: Oxford University Press, 1988), p. 96.Google Scholar

⁷³ García Cubas, El libro de mis recuerdos, p. 52–53.

⁷⁴ Camporesi, Exotic Brew, p. 49.

⁷⁵ Compare La Mujer, April 15, 1881, with El cocinero mexicano (1831), 1:178.

⁷⁶ See, for example, El cocinero mexicano (1831), vol. 2; Manual del cocinero y cocinera (1849), pp. 80–312; Nuevo y sencillo arte (1842), pp. 32–134, 162–72, 195–217.

⁷⁷ Gooch, Face to Face, p. 498.

⁷⁸ Calderón de la Barca, Life in Mexico, pp. 55, 156.

⁷⁹ Bullock, Six Months Residence in Mexico, p. 253.

⁸⁰ Nuevo y sencillo arte (1842), p. iv; Manual del cocinero y cocinera (1849), p. 92; Hortensia Rendón de García, Antiguo manual de cocina yucateca; fórmulas para condimentar los platos más usuales en la península, 7th ed., 3 vols. (Mérida: Librería Burrel, 1938 [First edition 1898]), 1:55.

⁸¹ Gooch, Face to Face, p. 494.

⁸² Cossio, José L., ed., Recetario de cocina mexicana escrito por Doña María Luisa Soto Murguindo de Cossio (Mexico City: Vargas Rea, 1968), pp. 7, 46–48.Google Scholar See also Marianita Vázquez de Celis, “Cuaderno de cocina,” 1874, Centro de Estudios de Historia de México, Condumex, Fondo 71–2, 1891; Cabrera, Eugenio del Hoyo, ed., La cocina jerezana en tiempos de López Velarde (Mexico City: Fondo de Cultura Económica, 1988), p. 48;Google Scholar Martín, Patricia Preciado, Songs My Mother Sang to Me: An Oral History of Mexican American Women (Tucson: University of Arizona Press, 1992), p. 56.Google Scholar

⁸³ Recetas prácticas para la señora de casa sobre cocina, repostería, pasteles, nevería, etc. (Guadalajara: Imp. del Orfanatorio del Sagrado Corazón de Jesús, 1892), p. 3; Nuestro libro. Este libro se vende al precio de un peso y su producto es en favor de las obras que sostienen las señoras de la Asunción de la caridad de San Vicente de Paul en San Angel. Segundo libro (Mexico City: Antigua Imprenta de Murguía, 1912); Kennedy, Diana, Recipes from the Regional Cooks of Mexico (New York: Harper & Row, 1978), p. 138.Google Scholar

⁸⁴ Torres, Cocina michoacana (1896), pp. 193, 340–50, 752.

⁸⁵ Ibid, p. 62; Recetas prácticas (1892), p. 103; Recetas de cocina (1911) quoted by Kennedy, Regional Cooks of Mexico, p. 138.

⁸⁶ See page 172.

⁸⁷ Nuestro libro, pp. 40–44.

⁸⁸ Torres, Cocina michoacana, p. v.

⁸⁹ Martínez, Herón Pérez, Refrán viejo nunca miente: Refranero mexicano (Zamora: El Colegio de Michoacán, 1993), p. 129.Google Scholar

⁹⁰ Elaine C. Lacey, “Meaning, Memory, and National Identity: The Centennial Celebration of Mexican Independence, 1921,” paper presented at the Calcott Symposium on Latin America, Columbia, South Carolina, February 17, 1996.

⁹¹ Her most important work was Platillos regionales de la República mexicana (Mexico City: Ediciones Josefina Velazquez de León, 1946).

⁹² El universo de la cocina mexicana: Recetario (Mexico City: Fomento Cultural Banamex, 1988), pp. 18, 40, 48.

⁹³ Quoted in Florence Fabricant, “Mexican Chefs Embrace a Lighter Cuisine of Old,” The New York Times, May 3, 1995, p. B3.

⁹⁴ Martin, Joann, “Contesting Authenticity: Battles over the Representation of History in Morelos, Mexico,” Ethnohistory 40:3 (Summer 1993), 438–65.CrossRefGoogle Scholar