In the course of our travels we came to a town where a great whei, or religious festival, was being held. Guests were so numerous that, after travelling all over the town, we were driven to take shelter at an inn which has such an unenviable reputation, that Chinese who know the place would rather trudge on by night or camp out than risk staying at it. We had no alternative. By representation of the muleteers, who said the inn had changed hands, and was now in charge of very respectable people, we were induced to go in. When we first arrived in the town the ostlers were all at the inn gate, and almost forced us to go in. However, after a vain search for another place we were obliged to return and enter.

I was entertained afterwards with tales of lonely travellers who had disappeared at that inn. We found it really deserved a bad name. In the morning the keepers of the inn insisted on being paid more than three times the proper amount. On our refusing to pay it, every man flew to his sword. A veritable set of ruffians they were. While they were arming, we walked right out and along to the high road, where there were, though early, already many travellers. When the scoundrels saw that we were gone, they took the amount (twice as much as they ought to have had), and allowed our mules to come after us.