When I first flew into the capital town of Honiara I knew no one in Santa Isabel or, for that matter, in the entire country (at that time still a British colony). My only contacts had been through correspondence with the British Permanent Secretary responsible for research approvals. Yet, with very little effort on my part, within a month I was situated in an Isabel village and busily engaged in work I had come to do. The relative ease of entrée, and the events which followed, say a great deal about the posture of Isabel people vis-à-vis the wider world.

As often happens in such situations, I was taken in tow almost immediately by my first acquaintance from the island. The above-mentioned British official introduced me to a young man, Eric Ehamana, from the area of Maringe where I was intending to work. Eric promptly suggested that I settle in his part of Maringe. And, since he and his family were about to go out to the island on holiday, he suggested that I accompany them.

The island

About three weeks after first touching down in the Solomon Islands, the Ehamana family and I boarded a small inter-island vessel, the Ligomo, for the journey to Santa Isabel.