Burly and crop-headed, Neil Stockwell patrols the perimeter of his fruit and veg stall at the entrance to Queen's Market in Upton Park, East London, like a lovable bull terrier. For 35 years he's exchanged banter with all-comers, from Asian elders to young West Ham United supporters on their way to a match. Every passer-by seems to know him.

Queen's Market is bright, bustling and hugely popular. It's been here for a century, and is everyone's meeting point, drawing white East Enders from behind their well-clipped hedges in Central Park estate, Bengali and Pakistani families from the terraces that stretch in rows like Venetian blinds north to Romford Road, bargain-hunters from every part of Africa and the Caribbean. All can find a stall selling something familiar – and maybe something new to try, whether it's yams or plantain, dhania or jellied eels. “This becomes a way of life, it ain't a job,” Neil says:

For Neil and his fellow traders, and for many of his customers, trade and community go hand in hand. But the mayor of Newham, Sir Robin Wales, has had other ideas for a long time. For much of the last decade the traders have fought plans to halve the size of the market to make room for a new Asda supermarket and luxury flats.

The traders and locals, who feared some of the poorest people in the East End would be priced out, hailed a huge victory when Asda pulled out of the initial deal in 2006. The developers, St Modwen, and Newham Council came back with a revised scheme.