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Over the twentieth century, multi-disciplinary academic studies addressed dress practice and bodily adornment from a variety of perspectives, assessing the question of fashion, though few communities outside the West were awarded this term until the past generation. Anthropologists took an ethnographic stance, with works that from the late 1980s became more attentive to the lived significance of clothing that reflected ‘agency, practice and performance’ with local and global impact.
In early fourteenth-century Egypt a new fashion spread: women began wearing qamīş (loose robes) with sleeves up to three ells wide that could cost as much as several months of a worker’s salary. In 1350–1 the vizier ordered that such sleeves should be cut and that these garments should no longer be produced. It is said that images of women who had been executed for wearing the forbidden garment were posted on the ramparts of Cairo as a warning. Yet a generation later, in the 1390s, wide sleeves were back in fashion and the new vizier forbade them once again as visible signs of decadence.