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Violent breaking wave impacts. Part 2: modelling the effect of air

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  25 November 2009

H. BREDMOSE ,
D. H. PEREGRINE  and
G. N. BULLOCK
H. BREDMOSE*
Affiliation:
School of Mathematics, University of Bristol, University Walk, Bristol BS8 1TW, UK
D. H. PEREGRINE
Affiliation:
School of Mathematics, University of Bristol, University Walk, Bristol BS8 1TW, UK
G. N. BULLOCK
Affiliation:
School of Engineering, University of Plymouth, Drake Circus, Plymouth PL4 8AA, UK
*
†Email address for correspondence: henrik@henrikbredmose.dk
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Abstract

When an ocean wave breaks against a steep-fronted breakwater, sea wall or a similar marine structure, its impact on the structure can be very violent. This paper describes the theoretical studies that, together with field and laboratory investigations, have been carried out in order to gain a better understanding of the processes involved. The wave's approach towards a structure is modelled with classical irrotational flow to obtain the different types of impact profiles that may or may not lead to air entrapment. The subsequent impact is modelled with a novel compressible-flow model for a homogeneous mixture of incompressible liquid and ideal gas. This enables a numerical description of both trapped air pockets and the propagation of pressure shock waves through the aerated water. An exact Riemann solver is developed to permit a finite-volume solution to the flow model with smallest possible local error.

The high pressures measured during wave impacts on a breakwater are reproduced and it is shown that trapped air can be compressed to a pressure of several atmospheres. Pressure shock waves, reflected off nearby surfaces such as the seabed, can lead to pressures comparable with those of the impact. Typical examples of pressure-time histories, force and impulse are presented and discussed in terms of their practical implications. The numerical model proposed is relevant for a variety of flows where air effects are important. Further applications, including extended studies of wave impacts, are discussed.

JFM classification

Waves/Free-surface Flows: Surface gravity waves
Type
Papers
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 641 , 25 December 2009 , pp. 389 - 430
Copyright
Copyright © Cambridge University Press 2009

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Footnotes

Deceased

‡

Present address: DTU Mechanical Engineering, Niels Koppels Allé, Building 403, DK-2800 Kgs. Lyngby, Denmark

References

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Bredmose et al. supplementary movie

The movie shows wave impacts on a vertical wall from the experiments in the Grosser Wellenkanal (GWK or Large Wave Channel) at the Forschungzentrum Küste (Coastal Research Centre) in Hannover, Germany. The waves are regular waves with an offshore depth of 4.25 m, a period of 8 s and a wave height of 1.35 m. The movie consists of four sections that show

impacts seen in a view facing the vertical wall. Note the sound associated with the impact and how several of the impacts impose strong vibrations in the laboratory.

close-up of impacts at the wall.

impacts seen from behind the wall. The vertical jet forms a sheet of water that shoots up in the air.

impacts seen from outside the building. The hole in the roof was generated by the waves during earlier experiments within the project.

Download Bredmose et al. supplementary movie(Video)
Video 16.6 MB