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Experimental study of the instabilities of waves obliquely incident on a beach

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  19 April 2006

R. T. Guza  and
D. C. Chapman
R. T. Guza
Affiliation:
Shore Processes Laboratory, Scripps Institution of Oceanography, La Jolla, California 92093
D. C. Chapman
Affiliation:
Shore Processes Laboratory, Scripps Institution of Oceanography, La Jolla, California 92093
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Abstract

Monochromatic waves obliquely incident on a plane beach, and strongly reflected there, are unstable to perturbations by edge waves. Theory suggests the possible width of the resonant edge wave frequency band. Experiments on beaches with absorbers at both ends show that the excited waves have frequencies at the centre of the band, as predicted by Guza & Bowen (1975). Advection by mean longshore currents must be taken into account. If reflectors are placed at the beach ends, the additional boundary conditions apparently lead to resonances scattered across the resonant band.

Type
Research Article
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 95 , Issue 1 , 14 November 1979 , pp. 199 - 208
Copyright
© 1979 Cambridge University Press

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References

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