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Double reflection of capillary/gravity waves by a non-uniform current: a boundary-layer theory

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  26 April 2006

Karsten Trulsen  and
Chiang C. Mei
Karsten Trulsen
Affiliation:
Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cambridge, MA 02139, USA
Chiang C. Mei
Affiliation:
Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cambridge, MA 02139, USA
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Abstract

When a train of gravity waves encounters an opposing current, the wavelength is shortened and the waves may be reflected. If capillarity is included, the shortened waves may be reflected for a second time and experience further shortening. By this process the initially long gravity waves can be damped by viscosity quickly without breaking. In this paper a boundary-layer approximation is obtained close to the reflection points, and is matched to the ray approximations outside. This is then applied to the propagation of a wavepacket. Damping is accounted for in the ray solution and the result is compared to the undamped solution. The case where the two reflection points coalesce is also considered. It is found that as the separation between the reflection points decreases, the wavepacket appears to remain longer in the region of reflections relative to the width of this region.

Type
Research Article
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 251 , June 1993 , pp. 239 - 271
Copyright
© 1993 Cambridge University Press

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