Hostname: page-component-77c89778f8-rkxrd Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-07-17T10:12:56.805Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false
  • English
  • Français

Generation of surf beat by non-linear wave interactions

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  29 March 2006

Brent Gallagher
Brent Gallagher
Affiliation:
Department of Oceanography, University of Hawaii, Honolulu, Hawaii 96822
Get access Rights & Permissions [Opens in a new window]

Abstract

Non-linear interactions among wind-generated gravity waves transfer energy to low frequency waves in a coastal zone. A transfer function is derived for a straight coastline of constant bottom slope. This model is applied to three actual cases, and numerical evaluation of the energy transfer produces low frequency spectra which are compared with observations.

Type
Research Article
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 49 , Issue 1 , 13 September 1971 , pp. 1 - 20
Copyright
© 1971 Cambridge University Press

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Biesel, F. 1952 Equations generales au second ordre de la houle irreguliere. La Houille Blanche, 7, 372–376.Google Scholar
Hasselmann, K. 1961 On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity-wave spectrum. Part 1. J. Fluid Mech., 12, 481–500.Google Scholar
Hasselmann, K. 1963a On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity-wave spectrum, Part 2. J. Fluid Mech., 15, 273–281.Google Scholar
Hasselmann, K. 1963b On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity-wave spectrum, Part 3. J. Fluid Mech., 15, 385–398.Google Scholar
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. & Stewart, R. W. 1962 Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves, with application to 'surf beats’. J. Fluid Mech., 13, 481–504.Google Scholar
Longuet-Hiqgins, M. S. & Stewart, R. W. 1964 Radiation stress in water waves; a physical discussion, with applications. Deep Sea Res., 11, 529–562.Google Scholar
Munk, W. H. 1949 Surf beets. Trans. Am. Geophys. Union, 30, 849–864.Google Scholar
Munk, W. H., Snodgrass, F. E. & Gilbert, F. 1964 Long waves on the continental shelf: an experiment to separate trapped and leaky modes. J. Fluid Mech., 20, 529–554.Google Scholar
Snodgrasy, F. E., Groves, G. W., Hasselmann, K. F., Miller, G. R., Munk, W. H. & Poweits, W. H. 1966 Propagation of ocean swell across the Pacific. Phil. Trans. Roy. Soc. A 259, 431–497.Google Scholar
Stoker, J. J. 1957 Water Waves. Interscience.
Tucker, M. J. 1950 Surf beats: sea waves of 1 to 5 min period. Proc. Roy Soc. A 202, 566–573.Google Scholar