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The Serpent Column of Delphi in Constantinople: Placement, Purposes, and Mutilations

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  22 January 2016

Thomas F. Madden*
Affiliation:
University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign

Extract

Between the two great obelisks of Istanbul’s Atmeidan, rests the battered and truncated remains of one of western civilization’s most intriguing and important artifacts: the Serpent Column of Delphi. With its two companions, the ancient bronze pillar marks the spina of the Byzantine hippodrome around which the chariots of the Empire once raced. Today only tour buses make the circuit. The Serpent Column is all the more extraordinary simply by its continued existence. On public display for over 2300 years, it somehow escaped the fires, earthquakes, and lootings which destroyed almost all other Hellenic bronze masterpieces. As one author at the turn of the twentieth century noted, ‘Nothing in Constantinople, perhaps in the world, has such a history.’ It is not, however, the purpose of this study to present that history, but rather to examine new evidence and make new arguments concerning crucial points in it. More specifically, this article will concentrate on the column’s physical state, as well as some local folklore surrounding it, from its removal to Constantinople in the fourth century until its truncation in 1700.

Type
Articles
Copyright
Copyright © The Centre for Byzantine, Ottoman and Modern Greek Studies, University of Birmingham 1992

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References

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41. The Anonymous Russian in ca. 1390 (ed. Majeska, 144) mentioned a working fountain in the hippodrome after describing the Serpent Column and Obelisk of Theodosius. From the description and his movement through the hippodrome, the fountain was probably somewhere near the current fountain of Wilhelm II, although more in the direction of Hagia Sophia.

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72. The snake problem in this period is illustrated by the exploits of Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq, who was in Constantinople in 1555 and 1556. Discussing his lodgings near the Column of Constantine (not far from the hippodrome) Busbecq noted, ‘it swarms with different kinds of vermin, such as weasels, snakes, lizards, and scorpions. Sometimes when a man goes to fetch his hat in the morning, he has the unpleasant surprise of finding a snake coiled round it.’ Unfortunate snakes, in fact, provided the neglected German ambassador with considerable entertainment. He was fond of staging fights between snakes and weasels, and was especially intrigued by the mechanics of the snakes’ ingestion of mice and frogs. Forster, Charles T. and Danieli, F. H. B., The Life and Letters of Ogier de Busbecq (London 1881) I, 2034.Google Scholar

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76. Leunclavius, Pandectes historiae Turcicae, MPG 159, col. 820; the Pandectes are included in all editions of the Annales. See also, Dieter Metzler, s.v. ‘Löwenklau’, Neue Deutsche Biographie, v. 15.

77. In 1578: Schweigger, Reyssbeschreibung, 124; in 1585: Leunclavius, Pandectes, MPG 159, col. 820; in 1655, de Thévenot, M., Relations d’un voyage fait au Levant (Paris 1665) IV, 412 Google Scholar, cited from Bourquelot, ‘Colonne serpentine’, 42; in 1672: d’Arvieux, Laurent, Mémoires du chevalier d’Arvieux, envoyé extraordinaire du Roy, à la Porte, Consul d’Alep, d’Alger, de Tripoli, & autres Echelles du Levant (Paris 1734) IV, 4678 Google Scholar. Johann Wild, in 1604, and Evliya Effendi, in 1634, blamed Selim II for the broken jaw: Wild, Johann, Reysbeschreibung eines Gefangen Christen Anno 1604, ed. Narciss, Georg A. (Stuttgart 1964) 332 Google Scholar; Evliya Effendi, ed. von Hammer, 19.

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88. The head is pictured in, Devambez, Pierre, Grand bronzes du Musée de Stamboul (Paris 1937) 912 Google Scholar, and Pl. II; good top and bottom views can also be found in Gauer, ‘Weihgeschenke aus den Perserkriegen’, Tafel 4.

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90. The first record of the shift in popular belief is found in Schweigger, Reyssbeschreibung, 124, who was there in 1578. But the story was not then widespread. In 1600: Ali, in Ménage, ‘Serpent Column’, 171, n. 20; in 1604: Wild, Reyssbeschreibung, 332; in 1634: Evliya Effendi, ed. von Hammer, 19; in 1672: d’Arvieux, Mémoires, IV, 467-8; in 1675/6: Spon and Wheler, Voyage, I, 178, and Wheler, George, A Journey into Greece in Company of Dr. Spon of Lyons (London 1682) 185 Google Scholar. The latter, based on the inscription on the obelisk structilis describing it as a ‘brazen wonder,’ believed the serpent column was once perched on its neighbour’s apex. Aubrey de la Motraye later repeated this theory, but treated it with well-deserved scepticism; Travels through Europe, Asia, and into Part of Africa (London 1723) 1, 196.

91. Du Mont, Nouveau Voyage, 173; my translation.

92. For a good bibliography on this folklore see, Vryonis, Speros Jr., The Decline of Medieval Hellenism in Asia Minor and the Process of Islamizationfrom the Eleventh through the Fifteenth Century (Berkeley — Los Angeles 1971) 4378 Google Scholar, n. 108. Related folklore continued to help shape Greek history in later centuries and, to some extent, still does. See Herzfeld, Michael, Ours Once More: Folklore, Ideology, and the Making of Modern Greece (Austin 1982).Google Scholar

93. Du Mont, Nouveau Voyage, 173.

94. Theatrum Europaeum (Frankfort-am-Main 1635-1738), XV, col. 867.

95. de la Motraye, Travels, I, 205.

96. de la Motraye calls it the “Palace with Cupolas” in the Atmeidan. Ménage, ‘Serpent Column’, 172, n. 28 correctly identifies this as the famous vizier’s old palace. The Theatrum Europaeum records that the ambassador was lodged near the obelisk, not far from Hagia Sophia; XV, cols. 867-8.

97. On the general mood of the Ottomans in their relations with the West during those years, see Abou-el-Haj, Rifaat A., ‘The Formal Closure of the Ottoman Frontier in Europe: 1699-1703’, Journal of the American Oriental Society 89 (1968) 46775, esp. 46970.CrossRefGoogle Scholar

98. de la Motraye, Travels, I, 205-6.

99. de la Motraye, Travels, I, 207, states that Lesinski left around October 1, but the Theatrum Europaeum gives August 1 as the date; XV, col. 868.

100. Original text in and this translation by Ménage, ‘Serpent Column’, 173.

101. Ibid.

102. de la Motraye, Travels, I, 206.

103. Mansel stresses that the Turks were, indeed, the last to want harm to come to the column. He leaves the door open for Polish complicity, but also suggests lightning or rapid temperature change as possible culprits. ‘Istanbul’daki “Burmali sütun”’, 206-9.

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105. Tournefort, J. P., Relations d’un voyage du Levant (Paris 1717) I, 512.Google Scholar

106. For example, Slade, Adolphus, Records of Travel in Turkey and Greece, 18291831 (London 1854) 390 Google Scholar, who claimed that Mehmed II truncated the column ‘to show his contempt for the emblem of collective wisdom’.

107. Bourquelot, ‘La Colonne serpentine’, 47.

108. Lybyer, Albert Howe, The Government of the Ottoman Empire in the Time of Suleiman the Magnificent (Cambridge, Mass 1913) 240 n.CrossRefGoogle Scholar

109. Pococke, Richard, A Description of the East and some other Countries (London 1745) II, part 2, 131 Google Scholar. It is not clear what Pococke was referring to.

110. Casson, Preliminary Report, 14.