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8 - How to Dress a Female King: Manifestations of Gender and Power in the Wardrobe of Christina of Sweden

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  21 November 2020

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Summary

Abstract

Christina Vasa (1626–1689) was crowned King of Sweden in the middle of the seventeenth century, an era in which sartorial politics and manifestations of power in clothing were a part of life. This article deals with the importance of clothes for Christina of Sweden and her strategies to present herself in a manner that legitimized her as a sole regent, in the context of gender and royal power and seen through the accounts of the Royal Wardrobe. By systematising and analysing the content of these accounts, it becomes apparent that Christina used her clothes to create a royal persona that had a given place on the royal scene, not only in a Swedish context but also in a European one.

Key words: Christina Queen of Sweden; sartorial politics; the Swedish court; the Royal Wardrobe; gender; dress history

Christina Vasa of Sweden was crowned with the official title King of Sweden on 20 October 1650, after already having ruled as monarch for six years. At her coronation, she was dressed in white and silver garments and a purple cloak lined with ermine, which together connected traditional values with modern ones. The appearance and design of Christina's garments would have been instrumental for her to legitimise and assert her power despite being a woman, and to create the persona of a successful monarch of a powerful nation. They would also have been a way for her to connect herself to desirable social and cultural contexts, such as an heiress of the Vasa family line or a participant in the European court scene.

Many historians and art historians have studied Christina's life – her childhood as the only heir of the Vasa dynasty, the years between 1644–1654 when she was a reigning monarch, and the last and longest part of her life, which she spent in Rome after abdicating the throne in favour of her male cousin Karl X Gustav (1622–1660). When it comes to her clothing habits, the combined sources on Christina's clothing are contradictory. Most research conducted tends to rely on portraits and other types of written sources discussing her as a person and her clothing, such as personal and diplomatic letters.

Type
Chapter
Information
Sartorial Politics in Early Modern Europe
Fashioning Women
, pp. 183 - 206
Publisher: Amsterdam University Press
Print publication year: 2019

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