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Wilful daughters, domestic goddesses, pious Muslims, and rebels: Islam, fashion, commodities, and emotions among upper class women in Pakistan, 1947–1962

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  28 July 2023

Elisabetta Iob*
Affiliation:
Department of Politics and Social Sciences, Università degli Studi di Trieste, Trieste, Italy

Abstract

Pakistan, 15 January 1950. Impeccably dressed, Zarina is going out to celebrate the wedding of her partner-in-gossip-crime, Fizza. Her busy life makes her feel anxious. The wrongdoings of the home helpers and her parents’ constant bickering fill her family life. Fashion magazines, get-togethers at the association she has just joined, and ladies’ glamorous parties are her only antidotes to stress.

This article explores the history of Zarina and her fellow upper class women's emotions, everyday lives, and daily perception of religious and socio-political ideas of change in Pakistan's momentous formative years (1947–1962). By relying on Francis Robinson's research on religious change, self, and the fashioning of Muslim identity, it provides the first historical ethnography of how upper class women in Pakistan understood and experienced socio-political change through the transformation of their emotions, religious views, lifestyle, and behaviour.

Drawing on material and visual culture and a rich selection of newspaper clippings and government records, this article lifts the curtain on the material and immaterial ‘stuff’ of women's dreams, taste in fashion, private lives, and political and religious ideas. Finally, it illuminates how women and their gendered agency became the key ‘sites’ for a new and, at times, surprising Islamic revival.

Type
Article
Copyright
Copyright © The Author(s), 2023. Published by Cambridge University Press on behalf of The Royal Asiatic Society

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References

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3 Ibid., p. 84.

4 Ibid.

5 Ibid.

6 Ibid.

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37 Ibid.

38 Ibid.

39 Pakistan Times (Lahore), 20 February 1955.

40 Ibid.

41 Kureshi, ‘Women's education in Pakistan’, p. 21, and Robinson, ‘Islamic reform and modernities in South Asia’, pp. 270–271.

42 Pakistan Times (Lahore), 20 February 1955. Sarah Ansari records similar socio-historical trends even in Karachi. See Ansari, ‘Polygamy, purdah and political representation’, pp. 1440–1443.

43 Pakistan Times (Lahore), 20 February 1955.

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47 Pakistan Times (Lahore), 21 November 1954.

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49 E. Özyürek, Nostalgia for the Modern. State Secularism and Everyday Politics in Turkey (Durham; London, 2006), p. 9. See also S. Boym, The Future of Nostalgia (New York, 2001).

50 Pakistan Times (Lahore), 3 October 1954.

51 Ibid.

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53 Pakistan Times (Lahore), 3 October 1954.

54 Ibid., 28 November 1954.

55 Ibid., 8 March 1955.

56 Ibid., 28 November 1954.

57 R. N. Ahmad, ‘Pakistan Women's National Guard’, Pakistan Quarterly 1.6 (1951), p. 35.

58 Ahmad, ‘Women's costumes in Pakistan’, pp. 16–17.

59 Pakistan Times (Lahore), 21 November 1954.

60 Ibid.

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63 Ibid.

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65 Zeb-un-Nissa would later found the glossy magazine Mirror, becoming first Pakistan's female editor and publisher.

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71 Ali, ‘The status of women of Pakistan’, p. 50.

72 Ibid.

73 Ikramullah, ‘Wedding’, p. 55. See also Hamidulla, ‘Pakistani ornaments and jewellery’, p. 43.

74 Hamidulla, ‘Pakistani ornaments and jewellery’, p. 43.

75 Ikramullah, ‘Wedding’, p. 55.

76 Hamidulla, ‘Pakistani ornaments and jewellery’, p. 43.

77 Ali, ‘The status of women of Pakistan’, p. 50.

78 Ikramullah, ‘Wedding’, p. 55.

79 Conversation with Dr Saeed Elahi, Lahore, June 2014.

80 Hamidulla, ‘Pakistani ornaments and jewellery’, p. 44.

81 R. Johnson, ‘Bangles’, Pakistan Quarterly 1.6 (1951), p. 86.

82 Hamidulla, ‘Pakistani ornaments and jewellery’, p. 45.

83 A. G. Ali, ‘The necklace’, Pakistan Quarterly 1.5 (1950), p. 43.

84 Ibid., p. 44.

85 Ibid.

86 Kureshi, ‘Women's fashion in Pakistan’, p. 43. See also 5935(15) Series, 71021/2(1.5), 0693a, 189/3146, 0795 I.S., 7109, 8095, Victoria and Albert Museum, London, United Kingdom.

87 Ahmad, ‘Women's costumes in Pakistan’, p. 17.

88 Ali, ‘The status of women of Pakistan’, p. 47.

89 Ibid.

90 Pakistan Times (Lahore), 13 July 1955.

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92 M. S. Nawaz, II, n.d., in Husain, ‘Miss Mumtaz Shah Nawaz’, p. 26.

93 Ibid., pp. 25–26.

94 Ibid., p. 25.

95 Pakistan Times (Lahore), 26 February 1955.

96 Ibid., 6 February 1955.

97 The New York Times, 1 January 1954.

98 Pakistan Times (Lahore), 9 February 1955.

99 Ibid.

100 Ibid.

101 Office Memorandum No. 20/2/59-Public, Minister of the Interior (Home Division), 4 July 1959, Multan District Records Room, Multan, Pakistan (henceforth MDDR).

102 S&GA Dept. Memo No. 832/59/AS, 4 March 1953, MDDR.

103 Jang (Lahore), 28 December 1952.

104 Information Department Letter No. SO(Pub)-I-7/62, 1 March 1962, MDDR.

105 Pakistan Times (Lahore), 20 February 1955.

106 Ibid.

107 See Quran, 11:38, 18:77, and 28: 26–27.

108 Pakistan Times (Lahore), 20 February 1955.

109 Ibid., 28 November 1954.

110 Hussain, M., ‘Combining global expertise with local knowledge in colonial India: selling ideas of beauty and health in commodity advertising (c. 1900–1949)’, South Asia: Journal of South Asian Studies 44.5 (2021), p. 930CrossRefGoogle Scholar.

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113 Pakistan Times (Lahore), 28 November 1954.

114 Ibid., 7 October 1954.

115 Ibid.

116 This provides further evidence and some historical perspective to Masooda Bano's comparative analysis of female education movements in northern Nigeria, Pakistan, and Syria. See Bano, M., Female Education Movements. The Re-democratisation of Islamic Knowledge (Cambridge, 2017)CrossRefGoogle Scholar.

117 Metcalf, Perfecting Women, p. 9.