Hostname: page-component-848d4c4894-sjtt6 Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-06-20T11:45:59.647Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Quasilinear approximation for the spectrum of wind-generated water waves

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  20 April 2006

Peter A. E. M. Janssen
Affiliation:
Department of Oceanographic Research, Royal Netherlands Meteorological Institute (KNMI), De Bilt, The Netherlands

Abstract

According to Miles’ theory of wind-wave generation, water waves grow if the curvature of the wind profile at the critical height is negative. As a result, the wind profile changes in time owing to the transfer of energy to the waves. In the quasilinear approximation (where the interaction of the waves with one another is neglected) equations for the coupled air–water system are obtained by means of a multiple-time-scale analysis. In this way the validity of Miles’ calculations is extended, thereby allowing a study of the large-time behaviour.

While the water waves grow owing to the energy transfer from the air flow, the waves in turn modify the flow in such a way that for large times the curvature of the velocity profile vanishes. The amplitude of the waves is then limited because the energy transfer is quenched.

In the high-frequency range the asymptotic wave spectrum is given by a ‘–4’ law in the frequency domain rather than the ‘classical’ ‘–5’ law.

Type
Research Article
Copyright
© 1982 Cambridge University Press

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Bernstein, I. B. & Engelmann, F. 1966 Quasi-linear theory of plasma waves. Phys. Fluids 9, 937.Google Scholar
Davidson, R. C. 1972 Methods in Nonlinear Plasma Theory. Academic.
Drummond, W. E. & Pines, D. 1962 Nonlinear stability of plasma oscillations. Nucl. Fusion Soc Suppl. 3, 1049.Google Scholar
Fabrikant, A. L. 1976 Quasilinear theory of wind-wave generation. Izv., Atmos. Oceanic Phys. 12, 524.Google Scholar
Hasselmann, K. 1967 Nonlinear interactions treated by the methods of theoretical physics (with application to the generation of waves by wind). Proc. R. Soc. Lond. A 299, 77.Google Scholar
Hasselmann, K. 1974 On the spectral dissipation of ocean waves due to white capping. Boundary-layer Met. 6, 107.Google Scholar
Hasselmann, K. 1978 On the spectral energy balance and numerical prediction of ocean waves. In Turbulent Fluxes through the Sea Surface, Wave Dynamics, and Prediction (ed. A. Favre & K. Hasselmann), p. 531. Plenum.
Hasselmann, K., Barnett, T. P., Bouws, E., Carlson, H., Cartwright, D. E., Enke, K., Ewing, J. A., Gienapp, H., Hasselmann, D. E., Kruseman, P., Meerburg, A., Müller, P., Olbers, D. J., Richter, K., Sell, W. & Walden, H. 1973 Measurements of wind-wave growth and swell decay during the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP). Deutsche Hydrog. Z., Suppl. A (80), no. 12.
Landau, L. 1946 On the vibrations of the electronic plasma. J. Phys. (U.S.S.R) 10, 25.Google Scholar
Lighthill, M. J. 1962 Physical interpretation of the mathematical theory of wave generation by wind. J. Fluid Mech. 14, 385.Google Scholar
Miles, J. W. 1957 On the generation of surface waves by shear flows. J. Fluid Mech. 3, 185.Google Scholar
Mitsuyasu, H., Tasai, F., Suhara, T., Mizuno, S., Ohkusu, M., Honda, T. & Rikushi, K. 1980 Observation of the power spectrum of ocean waves using a cloverleaf buoy. J. Phys. Oceanog. 10, 286.Google Scholar
Phillips, O. M. 1958 The equilibrium range in the spectrum of wind-generated water waves. J. Fluid Mech. 4, 426434.Google Scholar
Snyder, R. L., Dobson, F. W., Elliot, J. A. & Long, R. B. 1981 Array measurements of atmospheric pressure fluctuations above surface gravity waves. J. Fluid Mech. 102, 1.Google Scholar
Stewart, R. W. 1967 Mechanics of the air-sea interface. Phys. Fluids Suppl. 10, S47.Google Scholar
Toba, Y. 1973 Local balance in the air-sea boundary processes. III. On the spectrum of wind waves. J. Oceanog. Soc. Japan 29, 209.Google Scholar
Toba, Y. 1978 Stochastic form of the growth of wind waves in a single-parameter representation with physical implications. J. Phys. Oceanog. 8, 494.Google Scholar
Vedenov, A. A., Velikhov, E. P. & Sagdeev, R. Z. 1961 Nonlinear oscillations of a rarefied plasma. Nucl. Fusion 1, 182.Google Scholar