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Mechanisms for the generation of edge waves over a sloping beach

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  21 April 2006

D. V. Evans
D. V. Evans
Affiliation:
School of Mathematics, University of Bristol, Bristol BS8 1TW, UK
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Abstract

Two mechanisms for the generation of standing edge waves over a sloping beach are described using classical linear water-wave theory. The first is an extension of the result of Yih (1984) to a class of localized bottom protrusions on a sloping beach in the presence of a longshore current. The second is a class of longshore surface-pressure distributions over a beach. In both cases it is shown that Ursell-type standing edge-wave modes can be generated in an appropriate frame of reference. Typical curves of the mode shapes are presented and it is shown how in certain circumstances the dominant mode is not the lowest.

Type
Research Article
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 186 , January 1988 , pp. 379 - 391
Copyright
© 1988 Cambridge University Press

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References

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