Hostname: page-component-68945f75b7-6q656 Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-09-04T10:15:36.437Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

The dispersion of short wavelets in the presence of a dominant long wave

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  20 April 2006

O. M. Phillips
Affiliation:
Department of Earth and Planetary Sciences, The Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore, Maryland 21218

Abstract

The characteristics are studied of short surface waves superimposed upon, and interacting with, a long, finite-amplitude dominant wave of frequency N. An asymptotic analysis allows the numerical investigation of Longuet-Higgins (1978) to be extended to higher superharmonic perturbations, and it is found that, although they are distorted by the underlying finite-amplitude wave, gravity wavelets continue to propagate freely provided the dominant wave does not break. Capillary waves can, however, be blocked by short, steep, non-breaking gravity waves, so that in a wind-wave tank at short fetch and high wind speed, freely travelling gravity-capillary waves can be erased by the successive dominant wave crests.

A train or group of short gravity waves suffers modulations δk in its local wave-number because of the straining of the long wave, and large modulations Cδk in its apparent frequency measured at a fixed point (where C is the long wave phase speed), largely because of the Doppler shifting produced by the dominant wave orbital velocity. The spectral signatures of a wave train are calculated by stationary phase and are found to have maxima at the upper wavenumber or frequency in the range. If an ensemble of short-wave groups is sampled at a given frequency f at a fixed point, the signal is derived from groups with a range of intrinsic frequencies δ, but is dominated by those at the long-wave crest for which f = δ + k.u0, where u0 is the orbital velocity of the dominant wave. The apparent phase speed measured by a pair of such probes is the sum of the propagation speed c of the wavelet and the orbital velocity u0 of the long wave. When f/N is large, the apparent phase speed approaches u0, independent of f. These results are consistent with measurements by Ramamonjiarisoa & Giovanangeli (1978) and others in which the apparent phase speed at high frequencies is found to be independent of the frequency — the measurements do not therefore imply a lack of dispersion of short gravity waves on the ocean surface.

Type
Research Article
Copyright
© 1981 Cambridge University Press

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Banner, M. L. & Phillips, O. M. 1974 On the incipient breaking of small scale waves. J. Fluid Mech. 65, 647656.Google Scholar
Huang, N. E., Long, S. R., Bliven, L. F. & Burnett, K. 1980 A note on the phase velocities of wave components in a wind wave field. J. Fluid Mech. (in press).Google Scholar
Lake, B. M. & Yuen, H. C. 1978 A new model for nonlinear gravity waves. Part 1. J. Fluid Mech. 88, 3362.Google Scholar
Lighthill, M. J. 1978 Waves in Fluids. Cambridge University Press.
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1963 The generation of capillary waves by steep gravity waves. J. Fluid Mech. 16, 138159.Google Scholar
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1978 The instabilities of gravity waves of finite amplitude in deep water. Part 1. Superharmonics. Proc. Roy. Soc. A 360, 471488.Google Scholar
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. & Cokelet, E. D. 1976 The deformation of steep surface waves. 1. A numerical method of computation. Proc. Roy. Soc. A 350, 126.Google Scholar
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. & Stewart, R. W. 1960 Changes in the form of short gravity waves on long waves and tidal currents. J. Fluid Mech. 8, 565583.Google Scholar
Phillips, O. M. 1977 The Dynamics of the Upper Ocean, 2nd edn. Cambridge University Press.
Plant, W. J. & Wright, J. W. 1979 Spectral decomposition of short gravity wave systems. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 9, 621624.Google Scholar
Ramamonjiarisoa, A. 1974 Contribution a l’étude de la structure statistique et des mécanismes de génération des vagues de vent. Inst. Méc. Stat. de la Turbulence, Marseille, Rep. no. A. O. 10023.Google Scholar
Ramamonjiarisoa, A. & Coantic, M. 1976 Loi expérimental de dispersion des vagues produites par le vent sur une faible longueur d'action. C. R. Acad. Sci. Paris B 282, 111113.Google Scholar
Ramamonjiarisoa, A. & Giovanangeli, J.-P. 1978 Observations de la vitesse de propagation des vagues engendrées par le vent au large. C. R. Acad. Sci. Paris B 287, 133136.Google Scholar