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Diffraction of gravity waves by a barrier reef

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  20 April 2006

John W. Miles
John W. Miles
Affiliation:
Institute of Geophysics and Planetary Physics, University of California, La Jolla, California 92093
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Abstract

The gravity-wave scattering matrix for a barrier reef that separates two different depths of water is calculated by an extension of a variational analysis of diffraction by a discontinuity in depth (Miles 1967). The resulting transmission coefficient for equal depths differs from that obtained by Johnson, Fuchs & Morison (1951), which appears to be incorrect. The results are applied to the calculation of resonant amplification of incoming swell or tsunamis by a shallow lagoon that is bounded by the reef and a vertical inner boundary. The results for this last problem agree closely (exactly for equal depths) with those obtained by Tuck (1980) through a rather different approach.

Type
Research Article
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 109 , August 1981 , pp. 115 - 123
Copyright
© 1981 Cambridge University Press

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