We had arrived in the midst of the wet season, and all night the rain poured incessantly. But as the sun rose the clouds broke away, and our first view was rendered still more agreeable by the roseate mist that draped the tree-tops and lingered over the city. Anchored about us were vessels of various nations and strange-looking river craft, under whose thatched roofs whole families seemed to be living, and upon which green parrots and macaws were clambering and screaming.

Canoes, bound to the market, were constantly passing, loaded with all kinds of produce. Fine-looking buildings, of three and four stories’ height, faced the water, all yellow in colour, and roofed with red tiles. Vast cathedrals and churches, covered with the mould of age, shot up their tall spires, their walls and roofs affording sustenance and support to venerable mosses and shrubs of goodly size. Garden walls were overhung with creeping vines, like ancient ruins. Vultures were leisurely wheeling over the city, or in clusters upon the house tops, spreading their wings to the sun. Mid the ringing of bells and the discharge of rockets, a long procession was issuing from the church of San Antonio; and a Babel of sounds from dogs and parrots, and strange tongues, came over the water.

At about nine o'clock the doctor of the port visited us; and soon after an official of the custom-house examined our passports, and left with each of us a notification to present ourselves, within three days, to the chief of police, and to obtain from him a licence of residence.