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Letter XXXI

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  22 October 2021

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Summary

Teplitz. Departure. The Bohemian language. Theresienstadt. The geographical location of Prague. The bridge. The islands. The history of Prague. Hradschin. The cathedral. The palace. The museum. Hanka. Jungmann. Šafárik. Tomášek. The theatre. The language.

If I had to use hot baths, i.e., hot mineral baths, to cure cold, rheumatism, etc., I would choose Teplitz as my place of residence. The town is small, clean, nicelooking. The promenades are beautiful: the Castle Garden (Schloßgarten) and the garden of Count Clary. In the first one, the trees are of incredible height and beauty; in the latter—a beautiful covered gallery in which one can partake of all kinds of mineral waters. There is even a small theatre, but no gambling houses: neither a bank, nor roulette—establishments, offensive to humanity, in which time, property, health, and honor itself sometimes perish. The high season was already gone by the middle of August; there were not many visitors, but among them was one, a dear, noble, educated man, a lover and connoisseur of fine arts and—conditio sine qua non—a Russian, who delighted my stay in Teplitz, refreshed my soul, warmed my heart, and left an eternal memory. In the company of the gracious Baron Fircks, I had rejoiced that he was not a woman; with Modest Dmitrievich Rezvoy, I regretted, that I, myself, was not one—a beautiful, young woman: if he had fallen in love with me, I would have lost my mind!— The pleasantness of Teplitz owes much to its incomparable surroundings: Castle Hill (Schloßberg) and the Milleschauer's large and small peaks, and many other picturesque places, from which the view stretches in all directions across a splendid picture of living nature that cannot be captured by still art.— Teplitz has the main market for Bohemian glass products: mugs, glasses, bowls, cups, demitasses, plates, saucers—all of these are made with extraordinary skill from fine, multicolored glass. Glass garnets do not differ from real ones in appearance.

On Thursday, 12/ 24 August, at six o’clock in the morning, I departed from Teplitz in a bad diligence. Traveling with me were a merchant from Leipzig and an elderly lady and young girl of a poor rank, but with a pretty face—both Bohemians or Czechs. I amused myself during the journey by asking them the names of different objects, actions, etc.,

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Publisher: Anthem Press
Print publication year: 2021

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