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1977

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  07 May 2022

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Summary

A BUSINESS TRIP TO JAPAN - AND TOFUKUJI REVISITED

For the second time since I took charge last year of PHP Curasao, I travelled to Japan, in April, to drum up business among my many contacts there. Halfway the 3-week visit I broke away for an afternoon's exploration of the foothills of Kyoto's eastern mountain range, Higashiyama, where I had left so many footprints 20-odd years earlier. My journal entry of those few hours in April describes the ambivalence it triggered:

Rlglat now; it's the azalea season, but not a flower to be seen wherever I went today: first Tōfuku-ji Temple, then along the back road to other temples, ending at the Kōmyō-in, with its expanse of barren rock set against a backdrop of a sparsely vegetated hillock. The buzzing of bees emphasised the stillness. I sat zazen-like on the wooden temple veranda, then lay on my back, eyes closed but aware…. After a while, a soft shuffling of feet: two students in jeans reverentially joined my solitude, unwittingly destroying it. Got up and left. Still, this brief rest had repaired the damage done at Tōfuku-ji, where the ticket-selling woman (there was no entrance fee back then…) had answered my polite question about the availability of a tearoom with a bored and terse flSTai yol’ which translates roughly as ‘Forget it, buster.’

Inside Tōfuku-ji's spacious grounds there were other disappointments. Groups of tourists everywhere, and “No entry’ signs wherever you looked to keep them at bay. And then to think that I once had the run of the 20-hectare complex with its numerous outbuildings, and was invited to tea by the Chief Abbott seated on thick cushions in the innermost chamber of the main temple hall! I remember being ushered through a succession of matted rooms, door after door sliding away in synch with my advancing step. Now the stern entrance hall — where a barefoot novice with shaven head once greeted my arrival on a cold winter day ignoring the creeping cold of the floorboards with stoic disdain — was cluttered with the paraphernalia of a reception committee for a kimono exhibition. Fussing girls were pinning rosettes on arriving grey-faced bespectacled storeowners, their wives trailing three steps behind.

Type
Chapter
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The Call of Japan
A Continuing Story - 1950 to the Present Day
, pp. 235 - 236
Publisher: Amsterdam University Press
Print publication year: 2020

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  • 1977
  • Hans Brinckmann
  • Book: The Call of Japan
  • Online publication: 07 May 2022
  • Chapter DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/9781912961153.032
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  • 1977
  • Hans Brinckmann
  • Book: The Call of Japan
  • Online publication: 07 May 2022
  • Chapter DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/9781912961153.032
Available formats
×

Save book to Google Drive

To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Google Drive.

  • 1977
  • Hans Brinckmann
  • Book: The Call of Japan
  • Online publication: 07 May 2022
  • Chapter DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/9781912961153.032
Available formats
×