In recent years, the principle of sustainability has presented itself as a challenge to the global economic system in general (Jackson, 2009), and to the fashion industry in particular. At first sight, what Orvar Löfgren (2005) has called its ‘catwalk economy’ – the systematic launching of new collections in the framework of biannual fashion weeks – seems to clash with the long-term orientation of sustainability, as expressed in the United Nations (UN) definition of sustainable development as ‘development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs’.

Even so, the value ascribed to sustainability signifies an ethical turn in business, which has foregrounded the responsibility to address problems related to climate and environment, as well as labour, animal welfare and corporate philanthropy. In association with terms such as organic, eco, green, fair trade and, in company strategy, corporate social responsibility and codes of conduct, sustainability is a figure that is vague enough to gloss over big varieties in definition, stakeholder interest and involvement, and at the same time powerful enough to draw the commitment of many different actors, including consumers, companies and (inter)national organizations. As such we use it as the heading for a new collective value orientation.