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6 results

  • 17 - Everyday Fashion in the Ottoman Empire, C. 1600–1800

  • from Part III - Many Worlds of Fashion
  • Edited by Christopher Breward, National Museums of Scotland, Beverly Lemire, University of Alberta, Giorgio Riello, European University Institute, Florence
  • Book:
    The Cambridge Global History of Fashion
    Published online:
    04 August 2023
    Print publication:
    17 August 2023, pp 571-598

  • Summary

    Ottoman fashion communicated through two sets of sartorial standards. The first traced out official attitudes encapsulated in the laws and regulations put forward by the state. Though some of this thinking was ‘Islamic’, insofar as it sought to promote norms and values prescribed by Islamic law, it really represented an ‘imperial’ mentality that thought in hierarchical terms and aimed at policing clothing in the name of social order. The second set of standards paid little heed to this official perspective. It spoke on behalf of regional styles, which were most pronounced among the poor in both town and village. These more mundane fashions reflected the immense cultural diversity of the empire, of which clothing was merely one of the most obvious artefacts. Measured against this local customary landscape spanning three continents, from the Balkans to the Middle East and North Africa, one can hardly talk about a single ‘Ottoman’ fashion at all.

  • STREET VIOLENCE AND SOCIAL IMAGINATION IN LATE-MAMLUK AND OTTOMAN DAMASCUS (CA. 1500–1800)

  • James Grehan
  • Journal:
    International Journal of Middle East Studies / Volume 35 / Issue 2 / May 2003
    Published online by Cambridge University Press:
    04 June 2003, pp. 215-236
    Print publication:
    May 2003

  • Crowds have always puzzled historians. As essentially anonymous and spontaneous movements, they often seem to possess a mysterious, irrational, and even primal quality. They can form suddenly and unpredictably, unite strangers behind an apparently common cause, move through the streets as if acting with a single will, and then unexpectedly melt away into the surrounding neighborhoods and markets from which they came. Explanations are not easy to find. Once the sound and fury have subsided and participants have left the streets, it is nearly impossible to trace identities or determine individual motives for joining demonstrations. This obscurity only deepens when one moves to the more distant past, as the number of records and firsthand accounts rapidly dwindles.