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The Cambridge Global History of Fashion
  • The Cambridge Global History of Fashion
  • From Antiquity to the Nineteenth Century
  • Volume 1
  • Edited by Christopher Breward, Beverly Lemire, Giorgio Riello
  • Coming soon
  • Expected online publication date: July 2023
  • Print publication: 31 July 2023
  • View description
    Volume I surveys the long history of fashion from the ancient world to c. 1800. The volume seeks to answer fundamental questions on the origins of fashion, challenging Eurocentric explanations that the emergence of fashion was a European phenomenon and shows instead that fashion found early expressions across the globe well before the age of European colonialism and imperialism. It sheds light on how fashion was experienced in a multitude of ways depending on class, gender, and race, and despite geographical distance, fashion connected populations across the globe. Fashions flowered and were reseeded, through entanglements of empire, forced and voluntary migration, evolving racial systems, burgeoning sea travel and transcontinental systems.
The Cambridge Global History of Fashion
  • The Cambridge Global History of Fashion
  • From the Nineteenth Century to the Present
  • Volume 2
  • Edited by Christopher Breward, Beverly Lemire, Giorgio Riello
  • Coming soon
  • Expected online publication date: July 2023
  • Print publication: 31 July 2023
  • View description
    Volume II surveys the history of fashion from the nineteenth-century to the present day. Covering the period beginning with mass industry and ending with calls for sustainability, this volume challenges the meaning of modernity and modernism from a global perspective and reflects on important scholarship that has changed our understanding of the relationship between fashion and colonialism. Empires shifted and new powers rose, with fashion marking and contending with this change. The volume concludes with a critical view of fashion and globalisation, and explores the deep connections between the fashion industry, the global economy, and the politics of production and wearing in the contemporary world.
  • 2 - Failure and the Industrial Revolution: The East India Companies’ Procurement and the Rise of the British Cotton Textile Industry
  • Edited by Joseph E. Inikori
  • Book: British Imperialism and Globalization, c. 1650-1960
  • Published by: Boydell & Brewer
  • Published online: 26 May 2022
  • Print publication: 14 January 2022, pp 51-72
  • View extract

    Summary

    Cotton and the Industrial Revolution

    Patrick O’Brien, in a series of publications co-authored with Philip Hunt and Trevor Griffiths in the 1990s, advanced a new and stimulating view of the process of British industrialization. Moving beyond classic analyses that posited the mechanization of textile production as the explananda of what is succinctly called the Industrial Revolution, O’Brien convincingly argued for the importance of political economy. The British state fostered the growth of a small sector such as cotton textile manufacturing especially in the north of England. Two conditions internal to the kingdom brought about over time what was in no sense a coherent mercantilist – let alone industrial – set of policies. First, the weight of linen imports on Britain's balance of trade. As woollens and worsteds were quantitatively by far the most important items of export – and they had been so for several centuries – by the eighteenth century, linen was Britain's major import especially from continental Europe and Ireland. Whilst there was no clear idea that cotton yarn and cloth might replace flax and linen, the British state understood that such a heavy reliance on foreign markets was both economically and politically hazardous. Second, it was thought that the economic system internal to the British Isles might provide a solution to this problem. England, climatically unsuitable for hemp and flax cultivation, had a thriving linen industry. Scotland and Ireland emerged instead within what might be considered an internal “colonial system,” as areas for the cultivation of valuable flax.

    This explanation was complemented by the work of historians who put more weight on processes of product innovation than on political economy. The development of new draperies in response to the commercialization of lighter woollens in Continental Europe was part and parcel of the transformation of a number of productive sectors in late seventeenth- and eighteenth-century Britain that included glass, porcelain as well as textile production. Key to the creation of new products was the inspiration gained from and the imitation of goods imported not just from Continental Europe but also from Asia. The Chinese porcelain and Indian cotton textiles imported by the English and other European East India companies stimulated not just new patterns of consumption but also attempts at substituting these imports with home-produced wares.

  • Slavery and the new history of capitalism
  • Trevor Burnard, Giorgio Riello
  • Journal: Journal of Global History / Volume 15 / Issue 2 / July 2020
  • Published online by Cambridge University Press: 25 June 2020, pp. 225-244
  • Print publication: July 2020
    • Article
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    The new history of capitalism (NHC) places a great deal of emphasis on slavery as a crucial world institution. Slavery, it is alleged, arose out of, and underpinned, capitalist development. This article starts by showing the intellectual and scholarly foundations of some of the broad conclusions of the NHC. It proceeds by arguing that capitalist transformation must rely on a global framework of analysis. The article considers three critiques in relation to the NHC. First, the NHC overemphasizes the importance of coercion to economic growth in the eighteenth century. We argue that what has been called ‘war capitalism’ might be better served by an analysis in which the political economy of European states and empires, rather than coercion, is a key factor in the transformation of capitalism at a global scale. Second, in linking slavery to industrialization, the NHC proposes a misleading chronology. Cotton produced in large quantities in the United States came too late to cause an Industrial Revolution which, we argue, developed gradually from the latter half of the seventeenth century and which was well established by the 1790s, when cotton started to arrive from the American South. During early industrialization, sugar, not cotton, was the main plantation crop in the Americas. Third, the NHC is overly concentrated on production and especially on slave plantation economies. It underplays the ‘power of consumption’, where consumers came to purchase increasing amounts of plantation goods, including sugar, rice, indigo, tobacco, cotton, and coffee. To see slavery’s role in fostering the preconditions of industrialization and the Great Divergence, we must tell a story about slavery’s place in supporting the expansion of consumption, as well as a story about production

The Right to Dress
  • The Right to Dress
  • Sumptuary Laws in a Global Perspective, c.1200–1800
  • Edited by Giorgio Riello, Ulinka Rublack
  • Published online: 11 January 2019
  • Print publication: 17 January 2019
  • View description
    This is the first global history of dress regulation and its place in broader debates around how human life and societies should be visualised and materialised. Sumptuary laws were a tool on the part of states to regulate not only manufacturing systems and moral economies via the medium of expenditure and consumption of clothing but also banquets, festivities and funerals. Leading scholars on Asian, Latin American, Ottoman and European history shed new light on how and why items of dress became key aspirational goods across society, how they were lobbied for and marketed, and whether or not sumptuary laws were implemented by cities, states and empires to restrict or channel trade and consumption. Their findings reveal the significance of sumptuary laws in medieval and early modern societies as a site of contestation between individuals and states and how dress as an expression of identity developed as a modern 'human right'.

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