Hostname: page-component-8448b6f56d-m8qmq Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-04-23T14:19:04.527Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Visible and invisible ageing: beauty work as a response to ageism

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  03 November 2008

LAURA HURD CLARKE
Affiliation:
School of Human Kinetics, University of British Columbia, Canada.
MERIDITH GRIFFIN
Affiliation:
School of Human Kinetics, University of British Columbia, Canada.

Abstract

This paper examines how older women experience and respond to ageism in relation to their changing physical appearances and within the context of their personal relationships and places of employment. We elucidate the two definitions of ageism that emerged in in-depth interviews with 44 women aged 50 to 70 years: the social obsession with youthfulness and discrimination against older adults. We examine the women's arguments that their ageing appearances were pivotal to their experience of ageism and underscored their engagement in beauty work such as hair dye, make-up, cosmetic surgery, and non-surgical cosmetic procedures. The women suggested that they engaged in beauty work for the following underlying motivations: the fight against invisibility, a life-long investment in appearance, the desire to attract or retain a romantic partner, and employment related-ageism. We contend that the women's experiences highlight a tension between being physically and socially visible by virtue of looking youthful, and the realities of growing older. In other words, social invisibility arises from the acquisition of visible signs of ageing and compels women to make their chronological ages imperceptible through the use of beauty work. The study extends the research and theorising on gendered ageism and provides an example of how women's experiences of ageing and ageism are deeply rooted in their appearances and in the ageist, sexist perceptions of older women's bodies.

Type
Research Article
Copyright
Copyright © 2008 Cambridge University Press

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Barnett, R. C. 2005. Ageism and sexism in the workplace. Generations, 29, 3, 2530.Google Scholar
Bartky, S. L. 1990. Femininity and Domination: Studies in the Phenomenology of Oppression. Routledge, New York.Google Scholar
Bartky, S. L. 1998. Foucault, femininity, and the modernization of patriarchal power. In Weitz, R. (ed.) The Politics of Women's Bodies: Sexuality, Appearance, and Behavior. Oxford University Press, New York, 2545.Google Scholar
Becker, E. 1973. The Denial of Death. Free Press, New York.Google Scholar
Bendick, M., Jackson, C. W. and Romero, J. H. 1996. Employment discrimination against older workers: an experimental study of hiring practices. Journal of Aging and Social Policy, 8, 4, 2546.Google Scholar
Berger, E. D. 2006. ‘Aging’ identities: degradation and negotiation in the search for employment. Journal of Aging Studies, 20, 4, 303–16.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Bergeron, S. M. and Senn, C. Y. 1998. Body image and sociocultural norms: a comparison of heterosexual and lesbian women. Psychology of Women Quarterly, 22, 3, 385401.Google Scholar
Bordo, S. 1993. Unbearable Weight: Feminism, Western Culture, and the Body. University of California Press, Los Angeles, California.Google Scholar
Brown, L. S. 1987. Lesbians, weight and eating: new analyses and perspectives. In Boston Lesbian Psychologies Collective (eds), Lesbian Psychologies: Explorations and Challenges. University of Illinois Press, Chicago, 294309.Google Scholar
Butler, R. 1969. Ageism: another form of bigotry. The Gerontologist, 9, 3, 243–6.Google Scholar
Bytheway, B. 1995. Ageism. Open University Press, Buckingham, UK.Google Scholar
Chiu, W. C. K., Chan, A. W., Snape, E. and Redman, T. 2001. Age stereotypes and discriminatory attitudes towards older workers: an East-West comparison. Human Relations, 54, 5, 629–61.Google Scholar
Cogan, J. C. 1999. Lesbians walk the tightrope of beauty: thin is in but femme is out. Journal of Lesbian Studies, 3, 4, 7789.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Cortese, A. J. 2004. Provocateur: Images of Women and Minorities in Advertising. Second edition, Rowman and Littlefield, Toronto, Ontario, Canada.Google Scholar
Davis, K. 2003. Dubious Equalities and Embodied Differences: Cultural Studies on Cosmetic Surgery. Rowman and Littlefield, New York.Google Scholar
Duncan, C. and Loretto, W. 2004. Never the right age? Gender and age-based discrimination in employment. Gender, Work and Organization, 11, 1, 95115.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Drigotas, S. M., Rusbult, C. E., Wieselquist, J. and Whitton, S. W. 1999. Close partner as sculptor of the ideal self: behavioral affirmation and the Michelangelo phenomenon. Journal of Personality and Social Psychology, 77, 2, 293323.CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed
Dworkin, S. H. 1989. Not in a man's image: lesbians and the cultural oppression of body image. Women and Therapy, 8, 1, 2739.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Falkingham, J. and Rake, K. 1999. Partnership in pensions: delivering a secure retirement for women. Benefits, September/October, 11–5.Google Scholar
Friedman, M. A., Dixon, A. E., Brownell, K. D., Whisman, M. A. and Wilfley, D. E. 1999. Marital status, marital satisfaction, and body image dissatisfaction. International Journal of Eating Disorders, 26, 1, 8195.3.0.CO;2-V>CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed
Furman, F. K. 1997. Facing the Mirror: Older Women and Beauty Shop Culture. Routledge, New York.Google Scholar
Furnham, A., Dias, M. and McClelland, A. 1998. The role of body weight, waist-to-hip ratio, and breast size in judgments of female attractiveness. Sex Roles, 39, 3/4, 311–26.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Gagne, P. and McGaughey, D. 2002. Designing women: cultural hegemony and the exercise of power among women who have undergone elective mammoplasty. Gender and Society, 16, 6, 814–38.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Gimlin, D. L. 2002. Body Work: Beauty and Self-Image in American Culture. University of California Press, Los Angeles, California.Google Scholar
Ginn, J. and Arber, S. 1993. Pension penalties: the gendered division of occupational warfare. Work, Employment and Society, 7, 1, 4770.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Ginn, J. and Arber, S. 1996. Gender, age and attitudes to retirement in mid-life. Ageing & Society, 16, 1, 2755.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Healey, S. 1993. Confronting ageism: a MUST for mental health. In Davis, N. D., Cole, E. and Rothblum, E. D. (eds) Faces of Women and Aging. Harrington Park, New York, 4154.Google Scholar
Heffernan, K. 1999. Lesbians and the internalization of societal standards of weight and appearance. Journal of Lesbian Studies, 3, 4, 121–7.Google Scholar
Hirsch, B. T., MacPherson, D. A. and Hardy, M. A. 2000. Occupational age structure and access for older workers. Industrial and Labor Relations Review, 53, 3, 401–18.Google Scholar
Hurd, L. 2000. Older women's body image and embodied experience: an exploration. Journal of Women and Aging, 12, 3/4, 7797.CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed
Hurd Clarke, L., Repta, R. and Griffin, M. 2007. Non-surgical cosmetic procedures: older women's perceptions and experiences. Journal of Women and Aging, 19, 3/4, 6987.CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed
Itzin, C. and Phillipson, C. 1993. Age Barriers at Work: Maximising the Potential of Mature and Older Workers. Metropolitan Authorities Recruitment Agency, Solihull, West Midlands, UK.Google Scholar
Itzin, C. and Phillipson, C. 1995. Gendered ageism: a double jeopardy for women in organizations. In Itzen, C. and Newman, J. (eds) Gender, Culture and Organizational Change: Putting Theory into Practice. Routledge, London, 8190.Google Scholar
Loretto, W., Duncan, C. and White, P. J. 2000. Ageism and employment: controversies, ambiguities and younger people's perceptions. Ageing & Society, 20, 3, 279302.Google Scholar
Markey, C. N., Markey, P. M. and Birch, L. L. 2004. Understanding women's body satisfaction: the role of husbands. Sex Roles, 51, 3/4, 209–16.CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed
Margolin, L. and White, L. 1987. The continuing role of physical attractiveness in marriage. Journal of Marriage and the Family, 49, 1, 21–7.Google Scholar
McKinley, N. M. 1999. Women and objectified body consciousness: mothers' and daughters' body experience in cultural, developmental, and familial context. Developmental Psychology, 35, 3, 760–9.CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed
McMullin, J. A. and Marshall, V. W. 2001. Ageism, age relations, and garment industry work in Montreal. The Gerontologist, 41, 1, 111–22.CrossRefGoogle ScholarPubMed
Miles, M. B. and Huberman, A. M. 1994. Qualitative Data Analysis. Sage, Thousand Oaks, California.Google Scholar
Miller, D. J. 2001. Weight satisfaction among black and white couples: the role of perceptions. Eating Disorders, 9, 1, 41–7.Google Scholar
Morgan, K. P. 1991. Women and the knife: cosmetic surgery and the colonization of women's bodies. Hypatia, 6, 3, 2553.Google Scholar
Murray, S. H., Touyz, S. W. and Beumont, P. J. 1995. The influence of personal relationships on women's eating behavior and body satisfaction. Eating Disorders, 3, 3, 243–52.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Negrin, L. 2002. Cosmetic surgery and the eclipse of identity. Body and Society, 8, 4, 2142.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Nelson, T. D (ed.) 2002. sAgeism: Stereotyping and Prejudice Against Older Persons. MIT Press, Cambridge, Massachusetts.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Pelican, S., Vanden Heede, F., Holmes, B., Melcher, L. M., Wardlaw, M. K., Raidl, M., Wheeler, B. and Moore, S. A. 2005. The power of others to shape our identity: body image, physical abilities, and body weight. Family and Consumer Sciences Research Journal, 34, 1, 5680.Google Scholar
Palmore, E. B. 1999. Ageism: Negative and Positive. Second edition, Springer Publishing Company, New York.Google Scholar
Paquette, M. and Raine, K. 2004. Sociocultural context of women's body image. Social Science and Medicine, 59, 5, 1047–58.Google Scholar
Pitman, G. E. 2000. The influence of race, ethnicity, class, and sexual politics on lesbians' body image. Journal of Homosexuality, 40, 2, 4964.Google Scholar
Schoenfelder, L. and Wieser, B. (eds) 1983. Shadow on a Tightrope: Writings by Women on Fat Oppression. Aunt Lute Book Company, Iowa City, Iowa.Google Scholar
Singh, D. and Young, R. K. 1995. Body weight, waist-to-hip ratio, breasts and hips: role in judgments of female attractiveness and desirability of relationships. Ethology and Sociobiology, 16, 6, 483507.Google Scholar
Smith, J. E., Waldorf, V. A. and Trembath, D. L. 1990. Single white male looking for thin, very attractive … . Sex Roles, 23, 11/12, 675–85.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Sontag, S. 1972. The double standard of aging. Saturday Review of Society, 23, 1, 2938.Google Scholar
Spencer, L., Ritchie, J. and O'Connor, W. 2003. Analysis: practices, principles and processes. In Ritchie, J. and Lewis, J. (eds) Qualitative Research Practice: A Guide for Social Science Students and Researchers. Sage, London, 199218.Google Scholar
Strauss, A. and Corbin, J. 1998. Basics of Qualitative Research: Techniques and Procedures for Developing Grounded Theory. Sage, Thousand Oaks, California.Google Scholar
Striegel-Moore, R. H., Tucker, N. and Hsu, J. 1990. Body image dissatisfaction and disordered eating in lesbian college students. International Journal of Eating Disorders, 9, 5, 493500.3.0.CO;2-C>CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Tantleff-Dunn, S. and Thompson, J. K. 1995. Romantic partners and body image disturbance: further evidence for the role of perceived-actual disparities. Sex Roles, 33, 9/10, 589605.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Taub, J. 2003. What should I wear? A qualitative look at the impact of feminism and women's communities on bisexual women's appearance. Journal of Bisexuality, 3, 1, 1122.Google Scholar
Taylor, P. and Walker, A. 1998. Employers and older workers: attitudes and employment practices. Ageing & Society, 18, 6, 641–58.Google Scholar
Walker, H., Grant, D., Meadows, D. and Cook, I. 2007. Women's experiences and perceptions of age discrimination in employment: implications for research and policy. Social Policy and Society, 6, 1, 3748.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Wolf, N. 1991. The Beauty Myth. Vintage, Toronto, Ontario, Canada.Google Scholar