Skip to main content Accessibility help
×
Hostname: page-component-76fb5796d-45l2p Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-04-25T21:19:23.697Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Six - To Let Textiles Talk: Fibre Identification and Technological Analyses of Prehistoric Textiles from Denmark

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  20 November 2019

Serena Sabatini
Affiliation:
Göteborgs Universitet, Sweden
Sophie Bergerbrant
Affiliation:
Göteborgs Universitet, Sweden
Get access

Summary

The chapter explores what can be learned about prehistoric people through technological analyses of their textile remains.

Type
Chapter
Information
The Textile Revolution in Bronze Age Europe
Production, Specialisation, Consumption
, pp. 134 - 153
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Print publication year: 2019

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Alberti, M. E. (2008) Textile industry indicators in Minoan work areas: problems of typology and interpretation, in Vestidos, Textiles y Tintes, Actes II Symposium Internacional sobre Textiles, Atenas 2005 (Purpurae Vestes II), ed. Afaro, C. and Karali, L., Valencia, 2535.Google Scholar
Andersson Strand, E. (2012) The textile chaîne opératoire: using a multidisciplinary approach to textile archaeology with a focus on the ancient Near East, Paléorient 38(1–2), 2140.Google Scholar
Andersson Strand, E. and Nosch, M.-L. eds. (2015) Tools, Textiles and Contexts: Textile Production in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean Bronze Age (Ancient Textiles Series 21), Oxford.Google Scholar
Anderson Strand, E., Felluca, E., Nosch, M.-L. and Peyronel, L. (2010a) New perspectives on Bronze Age textile production in the eastern Mediterranean: the first results with Ebla as a pilot study, in Proceedings of the 6th International Congress on the Archaeology of the Ancient Near East, May 5th–10th 2008, ed. Matthiae, P., Pinnock, F., Nigro, L. and Marchetti, N., Wiesbaden, 159176.Google Scholar
Andersson Strand, E., Frei, K. M., Gleba, M., Mannering, U., Nosch, M.-L. and Skals, I. (2010b) Old textiles – new possibilities, European Journal of Archaeology 13(2), 149173.Google Scholar
Appleyard, H. M. (1960) Guide to the Identification of Animal Fibres, Leeds.Google Scholar
Australian Wool Testing Authority Ltd, www.awtawooltesting.com.au [2017.2.21].Google Scholar
Ballard, M. and Skals, I. (1996) Masking and misinterpreting cotton fibers: dangers associated with fiber analysis of archaeological textiles. IIC. Preprints of the Contributions to the Copenhagen Congress: Archaeological Conservation and its Consequences, 6–10.Google Scholar
Barber, E. W. (1991) Prehistoric Textiles: the Development of Cloth in the Neolithic and Bronze Ages with Special Reference to the Aegean, Princeton.Google Scholar
Barber, E. W. (1994) Women’s Work: the First 20,000 Years, New York and London.Google Scholar
Bender Jørgensen, L. (1986) Forhistoriske textiler i Skandinavien (Nordiske Fortidsminder Serie b 9), Copenhagen.Google Scholar
Bender Jørgensen, L. (1992) North European Textiles until ad 1000, Aarhus.Google Scholar
Bender Jørgensen, L. (2012) Spinning faith, in Embodied Knowledge: Historical Perspectives on Belief and Technology, ed. Stig Sørensen, M. L. and Rebay-Salisbury, K., Oxford.Google Scholar
Bender Jørgensen, L. and Walton, P. (1986) Dyes and fleece types in prehistoric textiles from Scandinavia and Germany, Journal of Danish Archaeology 5, 177188.Google Scholar
Bergfjord, C., Mannering, U., Frei, K. M., Gleba, M., Scharff, A. B., Skals, I., Heinemeier, J., Nosch, M.-L. and Holst, B. (2012) Nettle as a distinct Bronze Age textile plant, Nature Scientific Reports 2(664), 14.Google Scholar
Bjerregaard, L. (2007) Chachapoya Textiles: the Laguna de los Condores Textiles in the Museo Leymebamba, Chachapoyas, Copenhagen.Google Scholar
Bjerregaard, L. and Schjellerup, I. (2002) Pre-Columbian Woven Treasures in the National Museum of Denmark, Aarhus.Google Scholar
Boye, V. (1896 [1986]) Fund af Egekister fra Bronzealderen i Danmark, Højbjerg.Google Scholar
Brandt, L. Ø. (2015) Unravelling textile mysteries with DNA analysis, in Global Textile Encounters (Ancient Textiles Series 20), ed. Nosch, M.-L., Feng, Z. and Varadarajan, L., Oxford, 8185.Google Scholar
Brandt, L. Ø., Schmidt, A. L., Mannering, U., Kelstrup, Christian D., Olsen, J. V. and Cappellini, E. (2014) Species identification of archaeological skin objects from Danish bogs, PLOS ONE 9, e106875.Google Scholar
Breniquet, C., Tengberg, M., Andersson Strand, E. and Nosch, M.-L., eds. (2012) Préhistoire des textiles au Proche-Orient/Prehistory of Textiles in the Near East, Paléorient 38(1–2).Google Scholar
Broholm, H. C. and Hald, M. (1940) Costumes of the Bronze Age in Denmark, Copenhagen.Google Scholar
Burke, B. (2010) From Minos to Midas: Ancient Cloth Production in the Aegean and in Anatolia (Ancient Textiles Series 7), Oxford.Google Scholar
Cardon, D. (2007) Natural Dyes: Sources, Tradition, Technology, Science, London.Google Scholar
Christiansen, C. A. (2004) A reanalysis of fleece evolution, in Priceless Invention of Humanity: Textiles. Report from the 8th North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles 2002, ed. Maik, J., Acta Archaeologica Lodziensia 50(1), 1117.Google Scholar
Crowfoot, G. M. (1931) Methods of Hand Spinning in Egypt and the Sudan, Halifax.Google Scholar
Degano, I. and Colombini, M. P. (2009) Multi-analytical techniques for the study of pre-Columbian mummies and related funerary materials, Journal of Archaeological Science 36(8), 17331790.Google Scholar
Emery, I. (1966) The Primary Structures of Fabrics, Washington, DC.Google Scholar
Frei, K. M., Mannering, U., Vanden Berghe, I. and Kristiansen, K. (2017) Bronze Age wool: provenance and dye investigations of Danish textiles, Antiquity 91, 640654.Google Scholar
Friedel, R. (1993) Some matters of substance in History from Things: Essays on Material Culture, ed. Lubar, S. and Kingery, W. D., Washington, DC, 4150.Google Scholar
Frölich, G., Spöttel, W. and Tänzer, E. (1929) Wollkunde: Bildung und Eigenschafen der Wolle (Technologie der Textilfasern 8), Berlin.Google Scholar
Geijer, A. (1979) A History of Textile Art, London.Google Scholar
Gleba, M. (2008) Textile Production in Pre-Roman Italy (Ancient Textiles Series 4), Oxford.Google Scholar
Gleba, M. (2012) From textiles to sheep: investigating wool fibre development in pre-Roman Italy using scanning electron microscopy (SEM), Journal of Archaeological Science 39, 36433661.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Gleba, M. (2014) Sheep to textiles: approaches to investigating ancient wool trade, Textile Trading and Distribution in Antiquity 73, 123133.Google Scholar
Good, I. (1999) The ecology of exchange: textiles from Shahr-I Sokhta, eastern Iran, unpublished PhD thesis, University of Pennsylvania.Google Scholar
Goodway, M. (1987) Fiber identification in practice, Journal of the American Institute for Conservation 26(1), 2744.Google Scholar
Grömer, K. (2016) The Art of Prehistoric Textile Making: the Development of Craft Traditions and Clothing in central Europe, Vienna.Google Scholar
Grömer, K., Kern, A., Reschreiter, H. and Rösel-Mautendorfer, H. eds. (2013) Textiles from Hallstatt: Weaving Culture in Bronze Age and Iron Age Salt Mines, Budapest.Google Scholar
Hald, M. (1980) Ancient Danish Textiles from Bogs and Burials (The National Museum Archaeological Historical Series 21), Copenhagen.Google Scholar
Hearle, J. W. S. and Morton, W. E. (2008) Physical Properties of Textile Fibres, Cambridge.Google Scholar
Hearle, J. W. S., Grosberg, P. and Backer, S. (1969) Structural Mechanics of Fibers, Yarns and Fabrics, Volume i, New York.Google Scholar
Hearle, J. W. S., Lomas, B. and Cooke, W. D. (2006) Atlas of Fibre Fracture and Damage, Cambridge.Google Scholar
Hoffmann, M. (1974) The Warp-Weighted Loom, Oslo.Google Scholar
Hofmann-de Keijzer, R. (2016) Dyeing, in The Art of Prehistoric Textile Making, ed. Grömer, K., Vienna, 140162.Google Scholar
Hurcombe, L. M. (2014) Perishable Material Culture in Prehistory: Investigating the Missing Majority, London.Google Scholar
Jones, J., Unruh, J., Knaller, R., Skals, I., Ræder Knudsen, L., Jordan-Fahrbach, E., Mumford, L. and Bruselius Scharff, A. (2007) Guidelines for the excavation of archaeological textiles, in Ancient Textiles: Production, Crafts and Society (Ancient Textiles Series 1), ed. Nosch, M.-L. and Gillis, C., Oxford, 529.Google Scholar
Kania, K. (2013a) Soft yarns, hard facts? Evaluating the results of a large-scale hand-spinning experiment, Journal for Archaeological and Anthropological Sciences 7(1), 113130.Google Scholar
Kania, K. (2013b) The Spinning experiment: influences on yarn in spinning with a hand spindle, in Ancient Textiles, Modern Science, ed. Hopkins, H. J., Oxford.Google Scholar
Kemp, B. J. and Vogelsang-Eastwood, G. (2001) The Ancient Textile Industry at Amarna, London.Google Scholar
Liu, R. K. (1978) Spindle whorls part i: some comments and speculations, The Bead Journal 3, 87103.Google Scholar
Mannering, U. (2016) Ever-hot fake fur, in Cutting Edge: Our Textile Universe, ed. Mannering, U. and Frisch, S., Copenhagen, 89.Google Scholar
Mannering, U. and Gleba, M. (forthcoming) Designed for Life and Death, Oxford.Google Scholar
Mannering, U. and Skals, I. (2014) Textiles and fabrics: conservation and preservation, in Encyclopedia of Global Archaeology, Volume xi, ed. Smith, C., New York, 72827287.Google Scholar
Mannering, U., Gleba, M. and Bloch Hansen, M. (2012) Denmark, in Textiles and Textile Production in Europe from Prehistory to ad 40 (Ancient Textiles Series 11), ed. Gleba, M. and Mannering, U., Oxford, 91118.Google Scholar
Morrell, A. (1985) The ATN guide to structural sewing: terms and techniques, Archaeological Textiles Newsletter 1.Google Scholar
Möller-Wiering, S. (2011) War and Worship: Textiles from 3rd to 4th Century ad Weapon Deposits in Denmark and Northern Germany (Ancient Textiles Series 9), Oxford.Google Scholar
New Zealand Wool Testing Authority Ltd, www.nzwta.co.nz [2017.2.21].Google Scholar
Nosch, M.-L., Koefoed, H. and Andersson Strand, E. (2013) Textile Production and Consumption in the Ancient Near East: Archaeology, Epigraphy, Iconography (Ancient Textiles Series 12), Oxford.Google Scholar
Peacock, E. E. (2014) Experimental soil burial studies for archaeological textile preservation and research: a review, in A Stitch in Time: Essays in Honour of Lise Bender Jørgensen (GOTARC Serie a 4), ed. Bergerbrant, S. and Fossøy, S. H., Gothenburg, 122.Google Scholar
Rast-Eicher, A. (2008) Textilien, Wolle, Schafe der Eisenzeit in der Schweiz, Basel.Google Scholar
Rast-Eicher, A. (2013) The fibre quality of skins and textiles from Hallstatt salt mines, in Textiles from Hallstatt: Weaving Culture in Bronze Age and Iron Age Salt Mines, ed. Kern, A., Reschreiter, H. and Rösel-Mautendorfer, H., Budapest, 163178.Google Scholar
Rast-Eicher, A. (2014) Bronze and Iron Age wools in Europe, in Wool Economy in the Ancient Near East and the Aegean: From the Beginnings of Sheep Husbandry to Institutional Textile Industry (Ancient Textiles Series 17), ed. Breniquet, C. and Michel, C., Oxford, 1221.Google Scholar
Rast-Eicher, A. (2016) Fibres: Microscopy of Archaeological Textiles and Furs, Budapest.Google Scholar
Rast-Eicher, A. and Bender Jørgensen, L. (2013) Sheep wool in Bronze Age and Iron Age Europe, Journal of Archaeological Science 40, 12241241.Google Scholar
Rösel-Mautendorfer, H. (2013) Sewing techniques and designs, in Textiles from Hallstatt: Weaving Culture in Bronze Age and Iron Age Salt Mines, ed. Grömer, K., Kern, A., Reschreiter, H. and Rösel-Mautendorfer, H., Budapest, 103121.Google Scholar
Rösel-Mautendorfer, H. (2016) Sewing and tailoring, in The Art of Prehistoric Textile Making, ed. Grömer, K., Vienna, 216240.Google Scholar
Ryder, M. L. (1969) Changes in the fleeces of sheep following domestication, in The Domestication and Exploitation of Plants and Animals, ed. Ucko, P. J., Dimbleby, A. and Dimbleby, G. W., London, 495521.Google Scholar
Ryder, M. L. (1983) Sheep and Man, London.Google Scholar
Ryder, M. L. (1988) Danish Bronze Age wools, Journal of Danish Archaeology 7, 136143.Google Scholar
Ryder, M. L. (1990) The natural pigmentation of animal textile fibres, Textile History 21(2), 135148.Google Scholar
Schneider, J. and Weiner, A. B. (1989) Introduction, in Cloth and Human Experience, ed. Schneider, J. and Weiner, A. B., Washington, DC, 129.Google Scholar
Skals, I. and Mannering, U. (2014) Investigating wool fibres from Danish prehistoric textiles, Archaeological Textiles Review 56, 2434.Google Scholar
Sofaer, J, Bender Jørgensen, L. and Choyke, A. (2013) Craft production: ceramics, textiles, and bone, in The Oxford Handbook of the European Bronze Age, ed. Fokkens, H., and Harding, A., Oxford, 469491.Google Scholar
Solazzo, C., Plowman, J., Dyer, J., Clerens, S. and Collins, M. (2013) Archaeological wool textiles investigated by proteomics, in NESAT XI: the North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles, ed. Banck-Burges, J. and Nübold, C., Rahden, Westfalen.Google Scholar
Stieger, G. (1888) Studien zur Monografie der Heidschnucke, Journal für Landwirtschaft 26, 139247.Google Scholar
Stærmose Nielsen, K.-H. (1989) Bronzealdersdragterne som blev en messe værd, Fynske Minder 1989, 3166.Google Scholar
The Textile Institute (1975) Identification of Textile Materials, Manchester.Google Scholar
Tilley, C. (1994) Interpreting material culture, in The Meanings of Things, ed. Hodder, Ian, Boston, MA, 165194.Google Scholar
Tímár-Balázsy, A. and Eastop, D. (1998) Chemical Principles of Textile Conservation, London.Google Scholar
Vanden Berghe, I., Gleba, M. and Mannering, U. (2010) Towards the identification of dyestuffs in Early Iron Age Scandinavian peat bog textiles, Journal of Archaeological Science 36, 19101921.Google Scholar
Vogelsang-Eastwood, G. (1993) Pharaonic Egyptian Clothing (Studies in Textile and Costume History 2), Leiden.Google Scholar
Walton, P. (1988) Dyes and wools in Iron Age textiles from Norway and Denmark, Journal of Danish Archaeology 7, 144158.Google Scholar
Walton, P. and Eastwood, G. (1983) A Brief Guide to the Cataloguing of Archaeological Textiles, London.Google Scholar

Save book to Kindle

To save this book to your Kindle, first ensure coreplatform@cambridge.org is added to your Approved Personal Document E-mail List under your Personal Document Settings on the Manage Your Content and Devices page of your Amazon account. Then enter the ‘name’ part of your Kindle email address below. Find out more about saving to your Kindle.

Note you can select to save to either the @free.kindle.com or @kindle.com variations. ‘@free.kindle.com’ emails are free but can only be saved to your device when it is connected to wi-fi. ‘@kindle.com’ emails can be delivered even when you are not connected to wi-fi, but note that service fees apply.

Find out more about the Kindle Personal Document Service.

Available formats
×

Save book to Dropbox

To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Dropbox.

Available formats
×

Save book to Google Drive

To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Google Drive.

Available formats
×