A strongly nonlinear long-wave approximation is adopted to obtain a high-order model for large-amplitude long internal waves in a two-layer system by assuming the water depth is much smaller than the typical wavelength. When truncated at the first order, the model can be reduced to the regularized strongly nonlinear model of Choi et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 629, 2009, pp. 73–85), which lessens the Kelvin–Helmholtz instability excited by the tangential velocity jump across the interface in the inviscid Miyata–Choi–Camassa (MCC) equations. Using the second-order model, the next-order correction to the internal solitary wave solution of the MCC equations is found and its validity is examined with the Euler solution in terms of the wave profile, the effective wavelength and the velocity profile. It is shown that the correction greatly improves the comparison with the Euler solution for the whole range of wave amplitudes and no further correction is necessary for practical applications. Based on a local stability analysis, the region of stability for the second-order long-wave model is identified in the physical parameter space so that the efficient numerical scheme developed for the first-order model can be used for the second-order model.

We consider high-order strongly nonlinear long wave models expanded in a single small parameter measuring the ratio of the water depth to the characteristic wavelength. By examining its dispersion relation, the high-order system for the bottom velocity is found stable to all disturbances at any order of approximation. On the other hand, systems for other velocities can be unstable and even ill-posed, as signified by the unbounded maximum growth. Under the steady assumption, a new third-order solitary wave solution of the Euler equations is obtained using the high-order strongly nonlinear system and is expanded in an amplitude parameter, which is different from that used in weakly nonlinear theory. The third-order solution is shown to well describe various physical quantities induced by a finite-amplitude solitary wave, including the wave profile, horizontal velocity profile, particle velocity at the crest and bottom pressure. For numerical computations, the first- and second-order strongly nonlinear systems for the bottom velocity are considered. It is shown that finite difference schemes are unstable due to truncation errors introduced in approximating high-order spatial derivatives and, therefore, a more accurate spatial discretization scheme is necessary. Using a pseudo-spectral method based on finite Fourier series combined with an iterative scheme for the inversion of a non-local operator, the strongly nonlinear systems are solved numerically for the propagation of a single solitary wave and the head-on collision of two counter-propagating solitary waves of finite amplitudes, and the results are compared with previous laboratory measurements.

We explore basic mechanisms for the instability of finite-amplitude interfacial gravity waves through a two-dimensional linear stability analysis of the periodic and irrotational plane motion of the interface between two unbounded homogeneous fluids of different density in the absence of background currents. The flow domains are conformally mapped into two half-planes, where the time-varying interface is always mapped onto the real axis. This unsteady conformal mapping technique with a suitable representation of the interface reduces the linear stability problem to a generalized eigenvalue problem, and allows us to accurately compute the growth rates of unstable disturbances superimposed on steady waves for a wide range of parameters. Numerical results show that the wave-induced Kelvin–Helmholtz (KH) instability due to the tangential velocity jump across the interface produced by the steady waves is the major instability mechanism. Any disturbances whose dominant wavenumbers are greater than a critical value grow exponentially. This critical wavenumber that depends on the steady wave steepness and the density ratio can be approximated by a local KH stability analysis, where the spatial variation of the wave-induced currents is neglected. It is shown, however, that the growth rates need to be found numerically with care and the successive collisions of eigenvalues result in the wave-induced KH instability. In addition, the present study extends the previous results for the small-wavenumber instability, such as modulational instability, of relatively small-amplitude steady waves to finite-amplitude ones.

We consider resonant triad interactions between surface and internal gravity waves propagating in two horizontal dimensions in a two-layer system with a free surface. As the system supports both surface and internal wave modes, two different types of resonant triad interactions are possible: one with two surface and one internal wave modes and the other with one surface and two internal wave modes. The resonance conditions are studied in detail over a wide range of physical parameters (density and depth ratios). Explicitly identified are the spectral domains of resonance whose boundaries represent one-dimensional resonances (class I–IV). To study the nonlinear interaction between two-dimensional surface and internal waves, a spectral model is derived from an explicit Hamiltonian system for a two-layer system after decomposing the surface and interface motions into the two wave modes through a canonical transformation. For both types of resonances, the amplitude equations are obtained from the reduced Hamiltonian of the spectral model. Numerical solutions of the explicit Hamiltonian system using a pseudo-spectral method are presented for various resonance conditions and are compared with those of the amplitude equations.

Nonlinear interactions between surface and internal gravity waves in a two-layer system are studied using explicit second-order nonlinear evolution equations in Hamiltonian form. Motivated by the detailed experiment of Lewis, Lake & Ko (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 63, 1974, pp. 773–800), our focus is on surface wave modulation by the group resonance mechanism that corresponds to near-resonant triad interactions between a long internal wave and short surface waves. Our numerical solutions show good agreement with laboratory measurements of the local wave amplitude and slope, and confirm that the surface modulation becomes significant when the group velocity of the surface waves matches the phase speed of the internal wave, as the linear modulation theory predicts. It is shown, however, that, after the envelope amplitude is increased sufficiently, the surface and internal waves start to exchange energy through near-resonant triad interactions, which is found to be crucial to accurately describe the long-term surface wave modulation by an internal wave. The reduced amplitude equations are also adopted to validate this observation. For oceanic applications, numerical solutions are presented for a density ratio close to one and it is found that significant energy exchanges occur through primary and successive resonant triad interactions.

This paper describes linear stability analysis of the two-dimensional steady motion of periodic deep-water waves with symmetric non-overhanging profiles propagating on a linear shear current, namely a vertically sheared current with constant vorticity. In order to investigate numerically with high accuracy the stability of large-amplitude waves, we adopt a formulation using conformal mapping, in which the time-varying water surface is always mapped onto the real axis of a complex plane. This formulation allows us to apply numerical methods developed for large-amplitude irrotational waves without a shear current directly to the present problem, and reduces the linear stability problem to a generalized eigenvalue problem. Numerical solutions describe both super- and sub-harmonic instabilities of the periodic waves for a wide range of wave amplitudes and clarify how the behaviours of dominant eigenvalues change with the strength of the shear current. In particular, it is shown that, even in the presence of a linear shear current, the steady periodic waves lose stability due to superharmonic disturbances at the wave amplitude where the wave energy attains an extremum, similarly to the case of irrotational waves without a shear current. It is also found that re-stabilization with an increase in wave amplitude characterizes subharmonic instability for weak shear currents, but the re-stabilization disappears for strong shear currents.

We consider a strongly nonlinear long wave model for large amplitude internal waves in a three-layer flow between two rigid boundaries. The model extends the two-layer Miyata–Choi–Camassa (MCC) model (Miyata, Proceedings of the IUTAM Symposium on Nonlinear Water Waves, eds. H. Horikawa & H. Maruo, 1988, pp. 399–406; Choi & Camassa, J. Fluid Mech., vol. 396, 1999, pp. 1–36) and is able to describe the propagation of long internal waves of both the first and second baroclinic modes. Solitary-wave solutions of the model are shown to be governed by a Hamiltonian system with two degrees of freedom. Emphasis is given to the solitary waves of the second baroclinic mode (mode 2) and their strongly nonlinear characteristics that fail to be captured by weakly nonlinear models. In certain asymptotic limits relevant to oceanic applications and previous laboratory experiments, it is shown that large amplitude mode-2 waves with single-hump profiles can be described by the solitary-wave solutions of the MCC model, originally developed for mode-1 waves in a two-layer system. In other cases, however, e.g. when the density stratification is weak and the density transition layer is thin, the richness of the dynamical system with two degrees of freedom becomes apparent and new classes of mode-2 solitary-wave solutions of large amplitudes, characterized by multi-humped wave profiles, can be found. In contrast with the classical solitary-wave solutions described by the MCC equation, such multi-humped solutions cannot exist for a continuum set of wave speeds for a given layer configuration. Our analytical predictions based on asymptotic theory are then corroborated by a numerical study of the original Hamiltonian system.

We investigated potential nosocomial aerosol transmission of severe fever with thrombocytopenia syndrome virus (SFTSV) with droplet precautions. During aerosol generating procedures, SFTSV was be transmitted from person to person through aerosols. Thus, airborne precautions should be added to standard precautions to avoid direct contact and droplet transmission.

Internal solitary waves in a system of two fluids, silicone oil and water, bounded above by a free surface are studied both experimentally and theoretically. By adjusting an extra volume of silicone oil released from a reservoir, a wide range of amplitude waves are generated in a wave tank. Wave profiles as well as wave speeds are measured using multiple wave probes and are then compared with both the weakly nonlinear Korteweg–de Vries (KdV) models and the strongly nonlinear Miyata–Choi–Camassa (MCC) models. As the density difference between the two fluids in the experiment is relatively small (approximately 14 %), but non-negligible, special attention is paid to the effect of the boundary condition at the top surface. The nonlinear models valid for rigid-lid (RL) and free-surface (FS) boundary conditions are considered separately. It is found that the solitary wave of the FS model for a given amplitude is consistently narrower than that of the RL model and it propagates at a slightly lower speed. Due to strong nonlinearity in the internal-wave motion, the weakly nonlinear KdV models fail to describe the measured internal solitary wave profiles of intermediate and large wave amplitudes. The strongly nonlinear MCC-FS model agrees better with the measurements than the MCC-RL model, which indicates that the free-surface boundary condition at the top surface is crucial in describing the internal solitary waves in the experiment correctly. Leaving the top surface free in the experiment allows us to observe small and relatively short wave packets on the top surface, particularly when the amplitude of the internal solitary wave is large. Once excited, the wave packet is located above the front half of the internal solitary wave and propagates with a speed close to that of the internal solitary wave underneath. A simple resonance mechanism between short surface waves and long internal waves without and with nonlinear effects is examined to estimate the characteristic wavelength of modulated short surface waves, which is found to be in good agreement with the observed wavelength when nonlinearity is taken into account. Using ray theory, the evolution of short surface waves in the presence of a background current induced by an internal solitary wave is also investigated to examine the location of the modulated surface wave packet.

We study the linear stability of the exact deep-water capillary wave solution of Crapper (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 2, 1957, pp. 532–540) subject to two-dimensional perturbations (both subharmonic and superharmonic). By linearizing a set of exact one-dimensional non-local evolution equations, a stability analysis is performed with the aid of Floquet theory. To validate our results, the exact evolution equations are integrated numerically in time and the numerical solutions are compared with the time evolution of linear normal modes. For superharmonic perturbations, contrary to Hogan (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 190, 1988, pp. 165–177), who detected two bubbles of instability for intermediate amplitudes, our results indicate that Crapper’s capillary waves are linearly stable to superharmonic disturbances for all wave amplitudes. For subharmonic perturbations, it is found that Crapper’s capillary waves are unstable, and our results generalize to the highly nonlinear regime the analysis for small amplitudes presented by Chen & Saffman (Stud. Appl. Maths, vol. 72, 1985, pp. 125–147).

An experimental and numerical study of the evolution of frequency spectra of dispersive focusing wave groups in a two-dimensional wave tank is presented. Investigations of both non-breaking and breaking wave groups are performed. It is found that dispersive focusing is far more than linear superposition, and that it undergoes strongly nonlinear processes. For non-breaking wave groups, as the wave groups propagate spatial evolution of wave frequency spectra, spectral bandwidth, surface elevation skewness, and kurtosis are examined. Nonlinear energy transfer between the above-peak () and the higher-frequency () regions, with being the spectral peak frequency, is demonstrated by tracking the energy level of the components in the focusing and defocusing process. Also shown is the nonlinear energy transfer to the lower-frequency components that cannot be detected easily by direct comparisons of the far upstream and downstream measurements. Energy dissipation in the spectral peak region () and the energy gain in the higher-frequency region () are quantified, and exhibit a dependence on the Benjamin–Feir Index (BFI). In the presence of wave breaking, the spectral bandwidth reduces as much as 40 % immediately following breaking and eventually becomes much smaller than its initial level. Energy levels in different frequency regions are examined. It is found that, before wave breaking onset, a large amount of energy is transferred from the above-peak region () to the higher frequencies (), where energy is dissipated during the breaking events. It is demonstrated that the energy gain in the lower-frequency region is at least partially due to nonlinear energy transfer prior to wave breaking and that wave breaking may not necessarily increase the energy in this region. Complementary numerical studies for breaking waves are conducted using an eddy viscosity model previously developed by the current authors. It is demonstrated that the predicted spectral change after breaking agrees well with the experimental measurements.

An experimental study of energy dissipation in two-dimensional unsteady plunging breakers and an eddy viscosity model to simulate the dissipation due to wave breaking are reported in this paper. Measured wave surface elevations are used to examine the characteristic time and length scales associated with wave groups and local breaking waves, and to estimate and parameterize the energy dissipation and dissipation rate due to wave breaking. Numerical tests using the eddy viscosity model are performed and we find that the numerical results well capture the measured energy loss. In our experiments, three sets of characteristic time and length scales are defined and obtained: global scales associated with the wave groups, local scales immediately prior to breaking onset and post-breaking scales. Correlations among these time and length scales are demonstrated. In addition, for our wave groups, wave breaking onset predictions using the global and local wave steepnesses are found based on experimental results. Breaking time and breaking horizontal length scales are determined with high-speed imaging, and are found to depend approximately linearly on the local wave steepness. The two scales are then used to determine the energy dissipation rate, which is the ratio of the energy loss to the breaking time scale. Our experimental results show that the local wave steepness is highly correlated with the measured dissipation rate, indicating that the local wave steepness may serve as a good wave-breaking-strength indicator. To simulate the energy dissipation due to wave breaking, a simple eddy viscosity model is proposed and validated with our experimental measurements. Under the small viscosity assumption, the leading-order viscous effect is incorporated into the free-surface boundary conditions. Then, the kinematic viscosity is replaced with an eddy viscosity to account for energy loss. The breaking time and length scales, which depend weakly on wave breaking strength, are applied to evaluate the magnitude of the eddy viscosity using dimensional analysis. The estimated eddy viscosity is of the order of 10−3 m2s−1 and demonstrates a strong dependence on wave breaking strength. Numerical simulations with the eddy viscosity estimation are performed to compare to the experimental results. Good agreement as regards energy dissipation due to wave breaking and surface profiles after wave breaking is achieved, which illustrates that the simple eddy viscosity model functions effectively.

The strongly nonlinear long-wave model for large amplitude internal waves in a two-layer system is regularized to eliminate shear instability due to the wave-induced velocity jump across the interface. The model is written in terms of the horizontal velocities evaluated at the top and bottom boundaries instead of the depth-averaged velocities, and it is shown through local stability analysis that internal solitary waves are locally stable to perturbations of arbitrary wavelengths if the wave amplitudes are smaller than a critical value. For a wide range of depth and density ratios pertinent to oceanic conditions, the critical wave amplitude is close to the maximum wave amplitude and the regularized model is therefore expected to be applicable to the strongly nonlinear regime. The regularized model is solved numerically using a finite-difference method and its numerical solutions support the results of our linear stability analysis. It is also shown that the solitary wave solution of the regularized model, found numerically using a time-dependent numerical model, is close to the solitary wave solution of the original model, confirming that the two models are asymptotically equivalent.

Two-dimensional weakly nonlinear surface gravity–capillary waves in an ideal fluid of finite water depth are considered and nonlinear evolution equations which are correct up to the third order of wave steepness are derived including the applied pressure on the free surface. Since no assumptions are made on the length scales, the equations can be applied to a fluid of arbitrary depth and to disturbances with arbitrary wavelength. For one-dimensional gravity waves, these evolution equations are reduced to those derived by Matsuno (1992). Most of the known equations for surface waves are recovered from the new set of equations as special cases. It is shown that one set of equations has a Hamiltonian formulation and conserves mass, momentum and energy. The analysis for irrotational flow is extended to two-dimensional uniform shear flow.

We derive general evolution equations for two-dimensional weakly nonlinear waves at the free surface in a system of two fluids of different densities. The thickness of the upper fluid layer is assumed to be small compared with the characteristic wavelength, but no restrictions are imposed on the thickness of the lower layer. We consider the case of a free upper boundary for its relevance in applications to ocean dynamics problems and the case of a non-uniform rigid upper boundary for applications to atmospheric problems. For the special case of shallow water, the new set of equations reduces to the Boussinesq equations for two-dimensional internal waves, whilst, for great and infinite lower-layer depth, we can recover the well-known Intermediate Long Wave and Benjamin–Ono models, respectively, for one-dimensional uni-directional wave propagation. Some numerical solutions of the model for one-dimensional waves in deep water are presented and compared with the known solutions of the uni-directional model. Finally, the effects of finite-amplitude slowly varying bottom topography are included in a model appropriate to the situation when the dependence on one of the horizontal coordinates is weak.

Model equations that govern the evolution of internal gravity waves at the interface of two immiscible inviscid fluids are derived. These models follow from the original Euler equations under the sole assumption that the waves are long compared to the undisturbed thickness of one of the fluid layers. No smallness assumption on the wave amplitude is made. Both shallow and deep water configurations are considered, depending on whether the waves are assumed to be long with respect to the total undisturbed thickness of the fluids or long with respect to just one of the two layers, respectively. The removal of the traditional weak nonlinearity assumption is aimed at improving the agreement with the dynamics of Euler equations for large-amplitude waves. This is obtained without compromising much of the simplicity of the previously known weakly nonlinear models. Compared to these, the fully nonlinear models' most prominent feature is the presence of additional nonlinear dispersive terms, which coexist with the typical linear dispersive terms of the weakly nonlinear models. The fully nonlinear models contain the Korteweg–de Vries (KdV) equation and the Intermediate Long Wave (ILW) equation, for shallow and deep water configurations respectively, as special cases in the limit of weak nonlinearity and unidirectional wave propagation. In particular, for a solitary wave of given amplitude, the new models show that the characteristic wavelength is larger and the wave speed is smaller than their counterparts for solitary wave solutions of the weakly nonlinear equations. These features are compared and found in overall good agreement with available experimental data for solitary waves of large amplitude in two-fluid systems.