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Breaking of wind-generated waves: measurements and characteristics

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  26 April 2006

Paul A. Hwang ,
Delun Xu  and
Jin Wu
Paul A. Hwang
Affiliation:
Air-Sea Interaction Laboratory, College of Marine Studies, University of Delaware, Lewes, DE 19958, USA Present address: Ocean Research & Engineering, Pasadena, CA 91101, USA.
Delun Xu
Affiliation:
Air-Sea Interaction Laboratory, College of Marine Studies, University of Delaware, Lewes, DE 19958, USA Present address: Ocean University of Qingdao, Qingdao, Shandong, China.
Jin Wu
Affiliation:
Air-Sea Interaction Laboratory, College of Marine Studies, University of Delaware, Lewes, DE 19958, USA
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Abstract

A method of using local wave properties to provide a detailed description of breakings in a random wave field is developed. These properties, derived through the Hilbert transform, include the angular frequency, phase velocity, and surface-velocity components. The breaking characteristics are presented, including the probability of breaking, its time- and lengthscales, its intensity, and the phase of its inception. The time- and lengthscales, of breaking events were found to be linearly proportional to the corresponding scales of underlying waves, and to indicate that the breaking region is geometrically similar. Consistent results were obtained from temporal and spatial measurements. Finally, on the basis of these results we have evaluated geometric and kinematic criteria for identifying breaking waves.

Type
Research Article
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 202 , May 1989 , pp. 177 - 200
Copyright
© 1989 Cambridge University Press

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