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Men of Parts: Masculine Embodiment and the Male Leg in Eighteenth-Century England

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  02 September 2015

Karen Harvey
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Abstract

This essay explores changes in eighteenth-century male clothing in the context of the history of sexual difference, gender roles, and masculinity. The essay contributes to a history of dress by reconstructing a range of meanings and social practices through which men's clothing was understood by its consumers. Furthermore, critically engaging with work on the “great male renunciation,” the essay argues that the public authority that accrued to men through their clothing was based not on a new image of a rational disembodied man but instead on an emphasis on the male anatomy and masculinity as intrinsically embodied. Drawing on findings from the material objects of eighteenth-century clothing, visual representations, and evidence from the archival records of male consumers, the essay adopts an interdisciplinary approach that allows historians to study sex and gender as embodied, rather than simply performed. In so doing, the essay not only treats “embodiment” as an historical category but also responds to recent shifts in the historical discipline and the wider academy towards a more corporealist approach to the body.

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Articles
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Journal of British Studies , Volume 54 , Issue 4 , October 2015 , pp. 797 - 821
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Copyright © The North American Conference on British Studies 2015 

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References

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19 Such collections are not representative of historic clothing; nevertheless all the items of legwear from the relevant dates in each collection were surveyed for the research, an indicative sample of which is discussed here.

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25 Chapman, Cotton Industry, 14.

26 Styles, Dress of the People, 88.

27 Ibid., 337, Table 5.

28 Lemire, Business of Everyday Life, 126.

29 Ibid., 127, 134.

30 Claire Bartram, “Social Fabric in Thynne's Debate Between Pride and Lowliness,” in Clothing Culture: 1350–1650, ed. Catherine Richardson (Aldershot, 2004), 137–49.

31 Styles, Dress of the People, 338, 40; McNeil and Riello, “Art and Science of Walking,” 185.

32 Amanda Vickery, “Women and the World of Goods: A Lancashire Consumer and Her Possessions, 1751–81,” in Consumption and the World of Goods: Consumption and Society in the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries, ed. John Brewer and Roy Porter (London, 1993), 274–301.

33 Daniel Baker to his parents, 24 March 1706, D/X 1069/2/23, Centre for Buckinghamshire Studies.

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35 Ibid., fol. 6.

36 Ibid., fol. 7.

37 Ibid., fol. 197.

38 Accounts of Richard Brooke with John Elam for 2 December 1815, DNB/C/15E/134 1815, Cheshire and Chester Archives.

39 See for example, Green silk breeches with linen lining, 1760–1770, Bath Museum of Fashion, II.24.2B; Breeches, silk with linen lining and velvet, late eighteenth century, Manchester Gallery of Costume (Platt Hall), 1949.72.

40 Breeches, black twilled silk with linen, second half of eighteenth century, Manchester Gallery of Costume (Platt Hall), 1954.1107. See also the repairs to pantaloons, knitted silk, ca. 1820, Victoria and Albert Museum, T683A–1913.

41 Robert Sharp to William Sharp, 11 July 1825, in The Diary of Robert Sharp of South Cave: Life in a Yorkshire Village 1812–1837, ed. Janet Crowther and Peter Crowther (Oxford, 1997), 23; Robert Sharp to William Sharp, 17 October 1827, ibid., 166.

42 Account and memo book of George Newton, fol. 61.

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46 Rublack, Dressing Up, 19. See Ugolini, Men and Menswear, 24, 32, for the continuation of this practice into the twentieth century.

47 Styles, Dress of the People, 65.

48 Rublack, Dressing Up, 19; Styles, Dress of the People, 63–69.

49 Copy of a letter from Mr Francis Bull of Daventry to Mr Samuel Palmer, CR 147/33, Cheshire and Chester Archives.

50 William Hogarth, The Analysis of Beauty. Written with a view of fixing the fluctuating Ideas of Taste (London, 1753), 56.

51 Ibid., 61. On the male beauty and aesthetics more broadly, see Alex Potts, Flesh and the Ideal: Winckelmann and the Origins of Art History (New Haven, 1994).

52 See also Richardson, Annie, “An Aesthetics of Performance: Dance in Hogarth's ‘Analysis of Beauty,’” Dance Research: The Journal of the Society for Dance Research 20, no. 2 (Winter 2002): 38–87Google Scholar.

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55 McNeil and Riello, “Art and Science of Walking,” 195; Karen Harvey, Reading Sex in the Eighteenth Century: Bodies and Gender in English Erotic Culture (Cambridge, 2004), 175–98.

56 See Rhonda K. Garelick, Rising Star: Dandyism, Gender, and Performance in the Fin de Siècle (Princeton, 1999); Susan Vincent, The Anatomy of Fashion: Dressing the Body from the Renaissance to Today (Oxford, 2009), 116.

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76 Matthew Towle, The Young Gentleman and Lady's Private Tutor (London, 1770), 14.

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78 Hogarth, Analysis of Beauty, 80.

79 Discussed in McNeil and Riello, “Art and Science of Walking,” 182.

80 Harvey, Reading Sex, 124–45; Shannon, Cut of his Coat, 83–84.

81 William Hutton, The Life of William Hutton, F. A. S. S. (London, 1816), 26–27, quoted in Styles, Dress of the People, 58.

82 Trumbach, Sex and the Gender Revolution, 90–98, at 90.

83 Account and memo book of George Newton, fols. 61, 64,

84 Ibid., fol. 64.

85 Styles, Dress of the People, 59–60.

86 Lynn Sorge-English, Stays and Body Image in London: The Staymaking Trade, 1680–1810 (London, 2011), 181–212.

87 Claro, “Historicizing Masculine Appearance,” 156.

88 See Buckskin pantaloons, 1776–1800, Museum of London, 39.5/27.

89 Buckskin breeches, 1801–1825, Museum of London, 37.5.

90 Daniel Miller, “Introduction,” in Clothing as Material Culture, ed. Susanne Küchler and Daniel Miller (Oxford, 2005), 1–19, at 3; Kaori O'Connor, “The Other Half: The Material Culture of New Fibres,” in ibid., 41–60; Sophie Woodward, “Looking Good: Feeling Right—Aesthetics of the Self,” in ibid., 21–40; Alexandra Warwick and Dani Cavallaro, Fashioning the Frame: Boundaries, Dress and the Body (Oxford, 1998), 4.

91 Compare, for example, Ann Rosalind Jones and Peter Stallybrass, Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory (Cambridge, 2000), 2, and Dror Wahrman, The Making of the Modern Self: Identity and Culture in Eighteenth-Century England (New Haven, 2004), 178–79. On the changing relationship between people and things see Matthew Johnson, An Archaeology of Capitalism (Oxford, 1996), 190, 7–8.

92 Linzy Brekke, “‘To Make a Figure”: Clothing and the Politics of Male Identity Eighteenth-Century America,” in Gender, Taste, and Material Culture in Britain and North America, 1700–1830, ed. Amanda Vickery and John Styles (New Haven, 2006), 225–46, at 244; McCormack, “Dance and Drill,” 323.

93 Leonore Davidoff and Catherine Hall, Family Fortunes: Men and Women of the English Middle Class 1780–1850 (London, 1987), 412.

94 Christopher Breward, “Manliness, Modernity and the Shaping of Male Clothing,” in Body Dressing (Dress, Body, Culture), ed. Joanne Entwhistle and Elizabeth Wilson (Oxford, 2001), 165–81, at 165; Alison Bashford, Purity and Pollution: Gender, Embodiment and Victorian Medicine (Basingstoke, 1998), xvi.

95 Laqueur, Making Sex, 216.

96 Hollander, Sex and Suits, 88.

97 John Cleland, Memoirs of a Woman of Pleasure (London, 1749), 186.

98 Ibid., 188.

99 Harvey, Reading Sex, 129; see also 124–45.

100 Ibid., 35–77.

101 Laurence Sterne, The Life and Opinions of Tristram Shandy, Gentleman (London, 1767), 4:134, 133. Thanks to Markman Ellis for this reference. For an account of this episode see Norton, Brian Michael, “Tristram Shandy and the Limits of Stoic Ethics,” Eighteenth-Century Fiction 18, no. 4 (June 2006): 405–23, at 408, 413CrossRefGoogle Scholar.

102 See McNeil and Riello, “Art and Science of Walking,” 192.

103 Hollander, Sex and Suits, 88.

104 Berry, Helen, “Queering the History of Marriage: The Social Recognition of a Castrato Husband in Eighteenth-Century Britain,” History Workshop Journal 74, no. 1 (Autumn 2012): 27–50, at 30–31CrossRefGoogle Scholar; McCormack, “Dance and Drill,” 318.

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106 A Spy on Mother Midnight: or, the Templar Metamorphos'd. Being a Lying-in Conversation (London, 1748), 20–21.

107 C. Willett and Phillis Cunnington, The History of Underclothes (New York, 1992), 80–82.

108 Harvey, Reading Sex, 138–39. For women, dress, and aging, see Vickery, Amanda, “Mutton Dressed as Lamb? Fashioning Age in Georgian England,” Journal of British Studies 52, no. 4 (October 2013): 858–86CrossRefGoogle Scholar.

109 “Receipt for making the Limbs thick & strong,” 1727, “Medical recipes and prescriptions,” 1647–1850, in Papers of the Clerk family of Penicuik, Midlothian GD18/2125/31, The National Archives of Scotland. Thanks to Alison Montgomery for this reference.

110 Ibid.

111 Crossly, Signification of most Things that are born in Heraldry, 50.

112 M. de La Beaumelle [Laurent Angliviel], Reflections of ***** being a Series of Political Maxims (London, 1753), 169.

113 Anne Hollander, Seeing through Clothes (Berkeley, 1993), 311.

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115 Erin Mackie, Market à la Mode: Fashion, Commodity, and Gender in The Tatler and The Spectator (Baltimore, 1997), 190.

116 Grosz, Volatile Bodies, 198.

117 Harvey, Men in Black, 14.

118 Michael Zakim, Ready-Made Democracy: A History of Men's Dress in the American Republic, 1760–1860 (Chicago, 2005); Jenna Weissman Joselit, A Perfect Fit: Clothes, Character, and the Promise of America (New York, 2001), 2; Daniel Roche, The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the “Ancien Régime,” trans. Jean Birrell (Cambridge, 1994), 464; Kuchta, “Making of the Self-Made Man,” 65.

119 “Embodied citizenship” as used in contemporary political theory refers to the ways in which the material body affects the citizenship status of political subjects. See, for example, Bacchi, Carol Lee and Beasley, Chris, “Citizen Bodies: Is Embodied Citizenship a Contradiction in Terms?” Critical Social Policy 22, no. 2 (May 2002): 324–52CrossRefGoogle Scholar; Titchkosky, Tanya, “Governing Embodiment: Technologies of Constituting Citizens with Disabilities,” Canadian Journal of Sociology / Cahiers Canadiens de Sociologie 28, no. 4 (Fall 2003): 517–42CrossRefGoogle Scholar.