Hostname: page-component-77c89778f8-m42fx Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-07-17T00:33:31.790Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Chops and Trademarks: Asian Trading Ports and Textile Branding, 1840–1920

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  02 July 2015

Andreas P. Zangger*
Affiliation:
URPP Asia and Europe, Wiesenstrasse 8, 8008 Zurich, Switzerland. E-mail: andreas.zangger2@uzh.ch.

Abstract

This article is a contribution to the prehistory of modern branding, presenting a case study of the textile trade in colonial Southeast Asia. The visual appearance of brands as well as their social meaning were altered in the cultural encounter of colonial trade. Through these encounters, trademarks were modernized: the reputation of a producer became less important than the distinctiveness of the product.

Type
Manuscript
Copyright
© The Author 2014. Published by Oxford University Press on behalf of the Business History Conference. All rights reserved. For permissions, please e-mail: journals.permissions@oup.com

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Bibliography of Works Cited

Books

Aslanian, Sebouh D. From the Indian Ocean to the Mediterranean: The Global Trade Networks of Armenian Merchants From New Julfa.Berkeley: University of California Press, 2011.Google Scholar
Baghdiantz McCabe, Ina, ed. Diaspora Entrepreneurial Networks: Four Centuries of History. Oxford: Berg, 2005.Google Scholar
Berghoff, Hartmut, ed. Marketinggeschichte: Die Genese einer modernen Sozialtechnik.Frankfurt a. M.: Campus 2007.Google Scholar
Berghoff, Hartmut, ed. Wirtschaftsgeschichte als Kulturgeschichte: Dimensionen eines Perspektivenwechsels.Frankfurt a. M.: Campus, 2004.Google Scholar
Bevan, Andrew Wengrow, David, eds. Cultures of Commodity Branding.Walnut Creek, CA: Left Coast Press, 2010.Google Scholar
Burgers, Roelf Adrianus. 100 Jaar G. en H. Salomonson, Dissertation ed. Rotterdam: Nederlandsche Economische Hoogeschool, 1954.Google Scholar
Chandler, Alfred D. Takashi, Hikino. Scale and Scope the Dynamics of Industrial Capitalism.Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 1990.Google Scholar
Chapman, Stanley D. Merchant Enterprise in Britain From the Industrial Revolution to World War I.Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1992.Google Scholar
Chiang, Hai Ding. A History of Straits’ Settlements Foreign Trade 1870–1915.Singapore: National Museum, 1978.Google Scholar
Clarence-Smith, William G. Freitag, Ulrike eds. Hadhrami Traders, Scholars and Statesmen in the Indian Ocean, 1750s–1960s.Leiden: Brill, 1997.Google Scholar
Cochran, Sherman. Chinese Medicine Men: Consumer Culture in China and Southeast Asia.Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 2006.Google Scholar
Dahl, Gunnar. Trade, Trust, and Networks: Commercial Culture in Late Medieval Italy.Lund: Nordic Academic Press, 1998.Google Scholar
Davis, Alec. Package and Print the Development of Container and Label Design.London: Faber & Faber, 1967.Google Scholar
de Waal, Engelbertus. Aanteekeningen over Koloniale Onderwerpen, vol. 1.‘s-Gravenhage, The Netherlands: M. Nijhoff, 1865.Google Scholar
Djie, Liem T. De Distribueerende Tusschenhandel der Chineezen op Java.‘s-Gravenhage, The Netherlands: Martinus Nijhoff, 1947.Google Scholar
Dobbin, Christine. Asian Entrepreneurial Minorities: Conjoint Communities in the Making of the World-Economy 1570–1940.Richmond: Curzon, 1996.Google Scholar
Farnie, Douglas A. The English Cotton Industry and the World Market, 1815–1896.Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1979.Google Scholar
Gallop, Annabel T. Malay Seal Inscriptions: A Study in Islamic Epigraphy From Southeast Asia.London: SOAS, 2002.Google Scholar
Hudson, Graham. The Design & Printing of Ephemera in Britain & America, 1720–1920.London: British Library, 2008.Google Scholar
Kaduck, John M. Advertising Trade Cards, 1st ed. Des Moines, IA: Wallace-Homestead Book Co, 1976.Google Scholar
Last, Jay T. The Color Explosion Nineteenth-Century American Lithography.Santa Ana, CA: Hillcrest Press, 2005.Google Scholar
Lewis, John. Printed Ephemera the Changing Uses of Type and Letterforms in English and American Printing.Woodbridge: Antique Collector’s Club, 1990.Google Scholar
Lury, Celia. Brands: The Logos of the Global Economy. International Library of Sociology.London: Routledge, 2004.Google Scholar
Maczak, Antoni Philips, Ursula. Travel in Early Modern Europe.Oxford: John Wiley & Sons, 1995.Google Scholar
McClintock, Anne. Imperial Leather: Race, Gender and Sexuality in the Imperial Contest.London: Routledge, 1995.Google Scholar
Meyer, Carl. Die historische Entwicklung der Handelsmarke in der Schweiz.Bern, Switzerland: Stämpfli, 1905.Google Scholar
North, Douglas C. Structure and Change in Economic History.New York: W.W. Norton, 1981.Google Scholar
Olegario, Rowena. A Culture of Credit: Embedding Trust and Transparency in American Business.Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 2006.Google Scholar
Rabo, Annika. A Shop of One’s Own: Independence and Reputation Among Traders in Aleppo.London: Tauris, 2005.Google Scholar
Redford, Arthur. Manchester Merchants and Foreign Trade, 1850–1939, vol. II.Manchester, UK: Manchester University Press, 1956.Google Scholar
Rickards, Maurice Twyman, Michael. The Encyclopedia of Ephemera: A Guide to the Fragmentary Documents of Everyday Life for the Collector, Curator, and Historian.New York: Routledge, 2001.Google Scholar
Rouffaer, Gerrit P. Juynboll, Hendrik H.. De Batikkunst in Nederlandsch-Indië en haar Geschiedenis.Utrecht, The Netherlands: A. Oosthoek, 1914.Google Scholar
Salaman, Joseph S. A Manual of the Practice of Trade Mark Registration.London: Shaw & Sons, 1876.Google Scholar
Sandhu, Kernial S. Indian Communities in Southeast Asia, 2nd repr. ed. Singapore: Institute of Southeast Asian Studies, 2008.Google Scholar
Schechter, Frank I. The Historical Foundations of the Law Relating to Trade-Marks.New York: Columbia University Press, 1925.Google Scholar
Sen, Prosanto K. The Law of Monopolies in British India.Calcutta: MC Sircar & Sons, 1922.Google Scholar
Sherman, Brad Bently, Lionel. The Making of Modern Intellectual Property Law: The British Experience, 1760–1911.Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1999.Google Scholar
Slater, Don. Consumer Culture and Modernity.Cambridge: Polity Press, 1997.Google Scholar
Strachan, John. Advertising and Satirical Culture in the Romantic Period.Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2007.Google Scholar
Sulzer, Klaus. Vom Zeugdruck zur Rotfärberei: Heinrich Sulzer (1800–1876) und die Türkischrot-Färberei Aadorf.Zürich: Chronos, 1991.Google Scholar
Sunderland, David. Social Capital, Trust and the Industrial Revolution, 1780–1880.London: Routledge, 2007.Google Scholar
Tedlow, Richard S. Jones, Geoffrey. The Rise and Fall of Mass Marketing.London: Routledge, 1993.Google Scholar
Trocki, Carl A. Prince of Pirates: The Temenggongs and the Development of Johor and Singapore 1784–1885.Singapore: Univ. Press, 1979.Google Scholar
Tschudi, Peter. Hundert Jahre Türkischrotfärberei, 1829 - 1928: Geschichte der Rotfarb und Druckerei Joh. Caspar Tschudi in Schwanden.Glarus: Buchdruckerei Neue Glarner Zeitung, 1931.Google Scholar
Vleming, J. L. Het Chineesche Zakenleven in Nederlandsch-Indië. Weltevreden: Landsdrukkerij, 1926.Google Scholar
von Bavier, Ernst. Japan’s Seidenzucht, Seidenhandel und Seidenindustrie.Zürich: Orell, Füssli, 1874.Google Scholar
Wadsworth, Alfred P. De Lacy Mann, Julia. The Cotton Trade and Industrial Lancashire, 1600–1780.Manchester, UK: Manchester University Press, 1931.Google Scholar
Williamson, Oliver E. The Economics of Transaction Costs.Cheltenham: E. Elgar, 1999.Google Scholar
Wong, Lin Ken. The Trade of Singapore, 1819–1869. Mbras, Reprint No. 23.Singapore: 2003.Google Scholar
Zangger, Andreas. Koloniale Schweiz: Ein Stück Globalgeschichte zwischen Europa und Südostasien (1860–1930). Kulturgeschichten der Moderne.Bielefeld: Transcript Verlag, 2011.Google Scholar

Journal Articles and Essays

Andaya, Barbara W.“The Cloth Trade in Jambi and Palembang Society During the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries.” Indonesia 48 (1989): 2746.Google Scholar
Beebe, Barton.“The Semiotic Analysis of Trademark Law.” UCLA Law Review 51 (2004): 621704.Google Scholar
Beebe, Barton.“The Semiotic Account of Trademark Doctrine and Trademark Culture.” In Trademark Law and Theory a Handbook of Contemporary Research, edited by Dinwoodie, Graeme B., 4264.Cheltenham: Elgar, 2008.Google Scholar
Bently, Lionel.“The Making of Modern Trade Marks Law: The Construction of the Legal Concept of Trade Mark (1860–80).” In Trade Marks and Brands: An Interdisciplinary Critique, edited by Bently, Lionel Davis, Jennifer Ginsburg, Jane C., 341.Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2011.Google Scholar
Bogaars, George E.“The Effect of the Opening of the Suez Canal on the Trade and Development of Singapore.” Journal of the Malaysian Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society 28, no. 1 (1955): 99143.Google Scholar
Braddell, T.“Notes on the Chinese in the Straits.” Journal of the Indian Archipelago and Eastern Asia 9 (1855): 109124.Google Scholar
Brommer, Bea.“Bontjes Voor De Tropen.” In Bontjes Voor De Tropen: De Export van Imitatieweefsels naar de Tropen, edited by Brommer, Bea Helmond, Gemeentemuseum, 2740.Zwolle, The Netherlands: Waanders Uitgevers, 1991.Google Scholar
Brown, John C.“Imperfect Competition and Anglo-German Trade Rivalry: Markets for Cotton Textiles Before 1914.” The Journal of Economic History 55, no. 3 (1995): 494527.Google Scholar
Casson, Mark Wadeson, Nigel.“Export Performance and Reputation.” In Trademarks, Brands, and Competitiveness, edited by da Silva Lopes, Teresa Duguid, Paul, 3154.New York: Routledge, 2010.Google Scholar
Church, Roy.“New Perspectives on the History of Products, Firms, Marketing, and Consumers in Britain and the United States Since the Mid-Nineteenth Century.” The Economic History Review 52, no. 3 (1999): 405–35.Google Scholar
Clark, Garcia.“Lincoln Green and Real Dutch Java Prints.” In Cultures of Commodity Branding, edited by Bevan, Andrew Wengrow, David, 197212.Walnut Creek, CA: Left Coast Press, 2010.Google Scholar
da Silva Lopes, Teresa Casson, Mark.“Brand Protection and Globalisation of British Business.” Business History Review 86 (Summer 2012): 287310.Google Scholar
de Munck, Bert.“The Agency of Branding and the Location of Value. Hallmarks and Monograms in Early Modern Tableware Industries.” Business History 54, no. 7 (2012): 1055–76.Google Scholar
Den Otter, Piet Simon Thomas, Mienke.“‘Twentse Tjaps’.” Textielhistorische Bijdragen 33 (1993): 104–19.Google Scholar
Duguid, Paul da Silva Lopes, Teresa Mercer, John.“Reading Registrations: An Overview Over 100 Years of Trademark Registration in France, the United Kingdom, and the United States.” In Trademarks, Brands, and Competitiveness, edited by da Silva Lopes, Teresa Duguid, Paul, 930.New York: Routledge, 2010.Google Scholar
Duguid, Paul.“Developing the Brand: The Case of Alcohol, 1800–1880.” Enterprise and Society 4, no. 3 (2003): 405–41.Google Scholar
Eckhardt, Giana M. Bengtsson, Anders.“A Brief History of Branding in China.” Journal of Macromarketing 30, no. 3 (2010): 210–21.Google Scholar
Fanselow, Frank.“The Bazaar Economy Or How Bizarre is the Bazaar Really?” Man, New Series 25, no. 2 (1990): 250–65.Google Scholar
Fischer, Thomas.“Toggenburger Buntweberei auf dem Weltmarkt. Ein Beispiel schweizerischer Unternehmerstrategien im 19. Jahrhundert.” In Die Schweiz in der Weltwirtschaft (15.-20.jh.), edited by Bairoch, Paul Körner, Martin, 183205.Zürich, Switzerland: Chronos, 1990.Google Scholar
Fullerton, Ronald A.“How Modern is Modern Marketing? Marketing’s Evolution and the Myth of the “Production Era”.” The Journal of Marketing 52, no. 1 (1988): 108–25.Google Scholar
Greaves, Julian I.“Competition, Collusion, and Confusion: The State and the Reorganization of the British Cotton Industry, 1931–1939.” Enterprise and Society 3 (March 2002): 4879.Google Scholar
Greene, Stephen L. W.“Advertising Trade Cards: Nineteenth Century Showcases.” In Advertising and Popular Culture: Studies in Variety and Versatility, edited by Danna, Sammy R., 6472.Bowling Green, OH: Bowling Green State University Popular Press, 1992.Google Scholar
Hamilton, Gary G. Chi-kong, Lai.“Consumerism Without Capitalism: Consumption and Brandnames in Late Imperial China.” In The Social Economy of Consumption, edited by Rutz, Henry J. Orlove, Benjamin S., 253–79.Lanham, MD: University Press of America, 1988.Google Scholar
Higgins, David.“‘Forgotten Heroes and Forgotten Issues’: Business and Trademark History During the Nineteenth Century.” Business History Review 86 (2012): 261–85.Google Scholar
Higgins, David Tweedale, Geoffrey.“Asset Or Liability? Trade Marks in the Sheffield Cutlery and Tool Trades.” Business History 37, no. 3 (1995): 127.Google Scholar
Higgins, David Tweedale, Geoffrey. “The Trade Mark Question and the Lancashire Cotton Textile Industry, 1870–1940.” Textile History 27, no. 2 (1996): 207–28.Google Scholar
Holt, Douglas B.“Why Do Brands Cause Trouble? A Dialectical Theory of Consumer Culture and Branding.” Journal of Consumer Research 29 (2002): 7090.Google Scholar
Hoogenboom, Marcel Bannink, Duco Trommel, Willem.“From Local to Grobal, and Back.” Business History 52, no. 6 (2010): 932–54.Google Scholar
Ingenbleek, Paul.“Marketing Als Bedrijfshistorische Invalshoek: De Case van Vlisco in West-Afrika, 1900–1996.” NEHA Jaarboek 60 (1997): 258–84.Google Scholar
Jones, Ben. Matchbox Cover Design: The Evolution of and the Influences on the Graphical Design of Matchboxes.BA dissertation, University of Reading, 2004.http://www.protimient.com/MatchBoxLabels.pdf (Accessed June 20, 2014).Google Scholar
Jones, Geoffrey Wale, Judith.“Merchants as Business Groups: British Trading Companies in Asia Before 1945.” The Business History Review 72, no. 3 (1998): 367408.Google Scholar
Kelling, M. A. J.“Het Jaarbeurswezen in Nederlandsch-Indië.” Koloniale Studiën 9, no. 2 (1925): 210–42.Google Scholar
Koehn, Nancy F.“Henry Heinz and Brand Creation in the Late Nineteenth Century: Making Markets for Processed Food.” The Business History Review 73, no. 3 (1999): 349–93.Google Scholar
Lindblad, J. Thomas.“De Handel Tussen Nederland En Nederlands-Indie, 1874–1939.” NEHA Jaarboek 51 (1988): 240–98.Google Scholar
Low, George S. Ronald, A. Fullerton. Brands, Brand Management, and the Brand Manager System: A Critical-Historical Evaluation. Vol. 31 (2), Journal of Marketing Research.1994.Google Scholar
Mercer, John.“A Mark of Distinction: Branding and Trade Mark Law in the UK From the 1860s.” Business History 52, no. 1 (2010): 1742.Google Scholar
Moore, Karl Susan, Reid. The Birth of Brand: 4000 Years of Branding History, vol. 10169.Mpra Paper.2008.Google Scholar
Ng-Loy, Wee Loon.“Trade Marks, Language and Culture: The Concept of Distinctiveness and Publici Juris.” Singapore Journal of Legal Studies (2009): 508–44.Google Scholar
Peirce, Charles S.“New Elements (Kaina Stoicheia).” In The Essential Peirce, vol. 2 (1893–1913), edited by Peirce Edition Project, 300–24.Bloomington, IN: Indiana University Press, 1998.Google Scholar
Pennington, Julia R. Ball, A. Dwayne.“Customer Branding of Commodity Products: The Customer-Developed Brand.” Journal of Brand Management 16 (2009): 455–67.Google Scholar
Pratt, Mary L.“Arts of the Contact Zone.” Profession 91 (1991): 3340.Google Scholar
Ray, Rajat K.“Asian Capital in the Age of European Expansion: The Rise of the Bazaar, 1800–1914.” Modern Asian Studies 29, no. 3 (1995): 449554.Google Scholar
Rowe, William.“Domestic Interregional Trade in Eighteenth-Century China.” In On the Eighteenth Century as a Category of Asian History: Van Leur in Retrospect, edited by Blussé, Leonard Gaastra, Femme S., 173–92.Aldershot, UK: Ashgate, 1998.Google Scholar
Schechter, Frank I.“The Rational Basis of Trademark Protection.” Harvard Law Review 40, no. 6 (1927): 813–33.Google Scholar
Schwarzkopf, Stefan.“Turning Trademarks Into Brands: How Advertising Agencies Practiced and Conceptualized Branding, 1890–1930.” In Trademarks, Brands, and Competitiveness, edited by da Silva Lopes, Teresa Duguid, Paul, 165–93.New York: Routledge, 2010.Google Scholar
Simons, Henk Tophoven, Nancy.“Berichten Over En Weer: Informatiestromen Tussen Een Twents Textielfabrikant En Zijn Aziatische Afzetmarkten, 1875–1881.” In Katoen voor Indië: Sociale Ondernemers op het Spoor naar Vooruitgang, 1815–1940, edited by Fischer, Eric J., 4555.Amsterdam: NEHA, 1994.Google Scholar
Stüssi, Heinrich.“Lockender Orient: Conrad Blumers grosse Reise.” Neujahrsbote für das Glarner Hinterland 23, (1989): 1740.Google Scholar
Kiong, Tong Chee Kee, Yong Pit.“Guanxi Bases, Xinyong and Chinese Business Networks.” The British Journal of Sociology 49, no. 1 (1998): 7596.Google Scholar
Wagner, M. A.“Der Einfuhrhandel nach China.” In China: Wirtschaft und Wirtschaftsgrundlagen, edited by Hellauer, Josef, 258–81.Berlin: Gruyter, 1921.Google Scholar
Wengrow, David.“Prehistories of Commodity Branding.” Current Anthropology 49, no. 1 (2008): 734.Google Scholar
Wilkins, Mira.“The Neglected Intangible Asset: The Influence of the Trade Mark on the Rise of the Modern Corporation.” Business History 34, no. 1 (1992): 6695.Google Scholar
Zurndorfer, Harriet T.“Cotton Textile Manufacture and Marketing in Late Imperial China and the ‘Great Divergence’.” Journal of the Economic and Social History of the Orient 54, no. 5 (2011): 701–38.Google Scholar

Newspapers

Algemeen Handelsblad, Amsterdam, 1850–1890.Google Scholar
De locomotief: Samarangsch handels- en advertentie-blad, Semarang, 1850–1890.Google Scholar
Digital editions of newspapers from The Netherlands East Indies, the Netherlands, and Singapore have been searched for the expressions “chop,” “tjap,” and “trademark.”Google Scholar
Java-bode: nieuws, handels- en advertentieblad voor Nederlandsch-Indie, 1850–1890.Google Scholar
Rotterdamsche Courant, Rotterdam, 1850–1890.Google Scholar
Straits Times, Singapore, 1870–1910.Google Scholar

Law and Trade Reports

Cox, Rowland. A Manual of Trade-Mark Cases: Comprising Sebastian’s Digest of Trade-Mark Cases, Covering All the Cases Reported Prior to the Year 1879.Boston: Houghton Mifflin & Co, 1892.Google Scholar
Kindt, Jules.“Notes sur l’Industrie et le Commerce de la Suisse.” In Annales du Commerce Extérieur; Suisse; Législation Commerciale, edited by Ministère du commerce: Direction du commerce extérieur, 1426.Paris: 1847.Google Scholar
Samuel, Wells Williams A Chinese Commercial Guide: Consisting of a Collection of Details and Regulations Respecting Foreign Trade With China, Sailing Directions, Tables, Etc., 4th ed. Canton: Printed at the office of the Chinese Repository, 1856.Google Scholar

Archives and unpublished manuscripts

Archives of Diethelm & Co (DA) (Singapore, Bangkok, Saigon), Diethelm Keller Holding, Zurich.Google Scholar
Archives of P. Blumer & Jenny (BJ), Glarner Wirtschaftsarchiv, Schwanden.Google Scholar
Ellis, Susan. “Textile Ticket Printing and Pattern Card Making.” 1978.Google Scholar
Packing and Forwarding Book of Birnstiel, Lanz & Co (BL), Toggenburgermuseum Lichtensteig.Google Scholar
Ticket Book of Rautenberg, Schmidt & Co (RS) (Singapore/Penang), City Archives of Schaffhausen, D IV.01.34.02.Google Scholar
Ticketbook of Gelderman & Zonen (GZ), Historisch Centrum Overijssel, 168.2.Google Scholar
Trademark Files of Koninklijke Stoomweverij Nijverdal (KSW), Historisch Centrum Overijssel, 167.4.Google Scholar
Trademark Files of Mathias Naef, Niederuzwil (MN), Staatsarchiv St. Gallen: W 31.Google Scholar
Various Ticketbooks and Stamp Books on the Website of Adrian Wilson: http://www.textiletrademarks.com/ Google Scholar