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4 - Wind-generated waves

from Part II - Coastal Processes

Robin Davidson-Arnott
Robin Davidson-Arnott
Affiliation:
University of Guelph, Ontario
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Summary

Synopsis

Wind-generated waves are the most important energy input into the littoral zone and, together with wave-generated currents, they are responsible for coastal erosion and sediment transport. They are thus the primary force leading to modification of the coast and the creation of erosional and depositional landforms

A wind wave is simply a vertical displacement of the surface of a body of water that results from the transfer of energy from the wind to the water surface. Wind-generated waves are periodic, in that they appear as undulations on the water surface characterised by a high point, or crest, followed by a low point, or trough. They are also progressive in that the wave form travels across the water surface in the direction that the generating wind blows. The energy transferred from the wind is expressed in the potential energy resulting from the displacement of the crest and trough of the wave above and below the original still-water surface, and in the kinetic energy of the circular motion of water particles within the wave. In addition to waves generated by winds, a variety of other waves are found in oceans and lakes ranging from very long period waves, such as the tidal waves generated by the gravitational force of the moon and sun, to waves with much shorter periods, such as the standing waves produced by reflection of wind waves from seawalls.

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Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology , pp. 52 - 77
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Print publication year: 2009

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  • Wind-generated waves
  • Robin Davidson-Arnott, University of Guelph, Ontario
  • Book: Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology
  • Online publication: 05 March 2013
  • Chapter DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511841507.005
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  • Wind-generated waves
  • Robin Davidson-Arnott, University of Guelph, Ontario
  • Book: Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology
  • Online publication: 05 March 2013
  • Chapter DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511841507.005
Available formats
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Save book to Google Drive

To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Google Drive.

  • Wind-generated waves
  • Robin Davidson-Arnott, University of Guelph, Ontario
  • Book: Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology
  • Online publication: 05 March 2013
  • Chapter DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511841507.005
Available formats
×